SYNTHETIC MYTHS

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SYNTHETIC MYTHS

Postby oilman » Wed Nov 30, 2005 1:09 pm

I read so much stuff on the internet about Synthetic Oils that is simply not true so I felt it was time to tell the truth rather than accept the myth.

So in future when you see someone state any of these, please do me a favour and point them at this thread!

Synthetic motor oils damage seals:

Complete Nonsense! Any oil seals made after 1975 or thereabouts will be entirely compatible with any type of synthetic engine oil. (The same goes for synthetic gear oils and transmission oil seals.) It must be understood that everything associated with lubrication is thoroughly tested. The major oil manufacturers do not make oils that attack seals; seal manufacturers ensure that their products function correctly with modern lubricants.

Synthetic oils are too thin:

It is true that the best synthetic blends can be low viscosity (0w-20 for example), but they do not have to be! It is also true that the latest engines are designed to run on thin oil, which improves power output and fuel consumption. Even so, thicker synthetic based grades (10w-50, 15w-50, 20w-50etc) are available for air-cooled motors, older engines, or severe high temperature conditions. These grades can also benefit rebuilt classic engines dating back to the 1940s.

Synthetics mean higher oil usage:

The complete opposite of the truth. Oil consumption in well-maintained modern engines is mainly down to the oil evaporating at high temperatures. Synthetic base oils (specially the PAO and ester types) are very resistant to evaporation loss even in low viscosity blends, so oil consumption is minimised. Obviously, engines with worn valve guides, defective seals and worn piston rings will use oil regardless, so there is no point in using expensive synthetics as an ‘old banger lube’.

Synthetic oils are not compatible with other oils:

All engine oils intended for normal road use in recent 4-stroke engines are compatible with one another, regardless of the base make-up. (mineral, PAO/ester/hydrocracked synthetic, and semi-synthetic.) There is no need to flush or strip down an engine when changing from one type to another. (…but be careful with the exception: castor oil based racing oils.)

Synthetic oils produce sludge:

Well honestly, this is just totally daft. All synthetic bases are more resistant to oxidation than mineral oil, and sludge is largely due to oxidation. In any case, all motor oils intended for road use meet the higher API specs such as SH, SJ, SL and diesel equivalents. One of the main reasons for introducing the API specs back in the 1950s was to deal with oil sludge problems. All high-spec oils run very clean, especially synthetics.

Synthetic oils cannot be used with catalytic converters:

‘Cats’ will perform more efficiently and last longer if synthetic based engine oil is used. Their lower volatility (see 3 above) means that less oil reaches the combustion chambers via crankcase ventilation, so there are less harmful ash residues from burnt oil to de-activate the catalyst matrix.

Synthetic oils can void warranties:

People who make statements such as this never define the type of synthetic, thus revealing their ignorance. Provided that an oil meets or exceeds the API and viscosity ranges specified in the handbook, the warranty will not be affected. (By law, OEMs cannot insist that a particular brand of oil must be used to maintain warranty.)

Synthetic oils will last forever:

The better synthetic blends will certainly last longer*, especially in high performance or high annual mileage situations, but ‘forever’ is not on, simply because contaminants such as soot, and acid gasses from traces of sulphur in the fuel degrade the oil.
(*Provided that a very shear resistant VI improver polymer is used in the oil formulation to keep the viscosity up to spec. This point is often forgotten.

Synthetic oils are too expensive:

True, for older vehicles that use a lot of oil or are almost ready for the scrap yard. For cars that are worth maintaining, the right types of synthetic oil are a cost-effective way of retaining ‘as new’ performance, low fuel consumption, and reducing maintenance costs. (See 6 above, for example. ‘Cats’ aren’t cheap!)

Cheers
Simon
Use the code ALPINE and get 10% Club Discount
email: sales@opieoils.co.uk - phone: 01209 215164 opt 2
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Postby peterg » Wed Nov 30, 2005 2:34 pm

I have to query the one about synthetic oil mixing with other types. About 10 years ago I topped up my then kitcar with mineral oil when it was running on synthetic and the oil pressure virtually disappeared off the bottom of the scale....I was told that this was because the two had reacted in some way when mixed. An oil change later and everything was back to normal. It may be a coincidence, but I dont know of a garage anywhere that would deliberately mix mineral and synthetic.
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Postby oilman » Wed Nov 30, 2005 3:01 pm

Sounds like two different viscosities to me.

Cheers
Simon
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Postby A610GA » Fri Dec 02, 2005 12:48 pm

Oilman,

Please could you remind me the best synthetic to use in my A610?

Thanks
Geoff
8)
Driving an A610 is just so sublime.
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Postby oilman » Fri Dec 02, 2005 1:24 pm

The one that works best is Silkolene PRO S 10w-50.

Cheers
Simon
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Postby oilman » Fri Dec 02, 2005 1:25 pm

A610GA wrote:Oilman,

Please could you remind me the best synthetic to use in my A610?

Thanks
Geoff
8)


Geoff,

We would recomend the Silkolene Pro S 10w-50 ester/pao synthetic as a top option. Esters assist the additive pack in a motor oil formulation because they are surface-active (electrostatically attracted to metal surfaces), so they help to reduce wear and friction.

They are fluid at very low temperatures and at high temperatures they are very chemically stable and have low volatility (don’t evaporate away).

They also help to prevent hardening and cracking of oil seals at high temperatures.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Simon.
Use the code ALPINE and get 10% Club Discount
email: sales@opieoils.co.uk - phone: 01209 215164 opt 2
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