GTA Turbo ABS Issue

Hi

I changed the battery on my GTA Turbo last weekend as the old one was flat even though it was on a trickle charger. Fired the car up after changing the battery (with the same model battery) and all was good. However since the battery change when the car is stationary and the engine rev raise above 2k the ABS warning light comes on. The light only comes on when the revs raise and does not trip on idle. The alternator seems to be charging ok.

I have not moved the car since the battery change (as its currently blocked in my garage by another car) just fired it up and I am wondering if the car needs to move once the battery has been removed to reset the ABS ? Is it just a question of taking it out for a run and it will re-set the ABS?

Could it be a faulty battery as it only seems to trip the ABS light when the revs raise ? It does not ever occur if its sitting below 2k rpm.

Could an bad earth be causing this ? I think the ABS gubbins is under the plastic in the boot onteh drivers side ? Worth pulling out the liner and checking there? Anything else to check in that area.

The ABS seems to do a self test fine on startup and the light goes out so I dont think there is an issue with the ABS itself I think something else is causing this?


No other lights come on when the ABS light comes on i.e alternator etc.

I seem to remember someone mentioned many moons ago about a Renault ABS fault finding supplement ? Does anyone have a copy of this knocking around?

Has anyone else had a similar issue or any thoughts as this will be an MOT fail if the light comes on.

Thanks
Brad

[mettersl]

Hi Brad,
I have a copy of the GTA abs fault finding supplement, but only on paper. If no one comes forward with a pdf, I can scan it sometime next week.
The ABS on this car has no diagnostic data, the fault finding is basically checking voltages and resistances.
Having had a quick scan of it, the only thing it says about intermittent warning lights is check for poor connections.
On my car the battery earth is to the cross member and can be disturbed during battery changes, it might be worth starting there?
When you go above 2000 rpm, the alternator should be the item that determines the voltage, do you have a meter to check what you are seeing?
Hope you find the cause.

Hi Brad,

As Lee's suggested I'd start with the -ve terminal earth. I've mentioned this before, but the lead (assuming it's still located in the original position) goes into a gulley where leaves, dirt and damp can collect. Take the battery out and you'll see. I had to relocate mine as even when I removed the strap and looked to clean the contacts I couldn't get a good connection and it wouldn't re-tighten. This was years ago and straight after a battery replacement - car would start and run but the speedo was hitting 160 all the time and lots of associated weirdness.

Basically the moving of the lead had broke the connection and the thread was too corroded to tighten up.

In my case I relocated the -ve strap to the suspension turret. Yours is a very well cared for car so I think you'll be fine. You may just want to remove the earth strap and clean up the surface on both sides - wire brush, emery cloth etc. Essentially as shiny and clean as you can make it - the whole electrics to the car go through that one contact when you think about it.

Same goes for the clips on the battery, but generally they're pretty sound. If it doesn't fix it then you've lost nothing and it's always good to keep those contacts as good as possible.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

Darren

Cheers guys. I have an extra earth to the suspension turret as well as the normal one. Going to go out later and remove battery and check everything as suggested and refit. Can’t help thinking it can only be connection related when I removed and refitted the battery

Cheers
Brad

Removed battery today and cleaned up all connections. ABS light still comes on at revs. I have checked the volt readings with my meter and below is what I found:-

before startup - 12.48v
at idle when ABS light doesn't come on 14v to 14.1v
above 2k revs when ABS light doesn't come on 14.2v

when the ABS light comes at over 2k revs it fluctuates between
idle voltage had dropped to 13.4v
Revs above 2k at 14v at 2k


I think that the ABS light is being triggered by the fluctuation in voltage that seems to occur from low 13v's to 14 v with revs, I have read somehwhere that ABS does not like voltage spikes? I assume that this is down to a failing alternator sometimes producing inconsistent voltage? Thoughts?

Next question where is a good place to get a new alternator if required or best to get refurbed?

Ps this is a car with air con which I believe requires a 110amp alternator not a 90amp?

Quite a few years ago, I was in conversation with the Service Manager at my friendly Renault garage and ABS problems came up, and I remember him saying to me that a common problem was dirty sensors and toothed wheels. He told me that before going too deep with fault finding, it was their practice to clean the toothed wheels and the actual sensors, ....... rust on the toothed wheel, and metallic pickup on the sensor magnets can reduce the amplitude of the pulses.
Worth a look.

[mettersl]

Hi Brad,
You are right, you need the bigger alternator for AC...but the regulator (which comes with new brushes) is the same for both and is easily obtained on line...in my case for about £10 via ebay.
Mine failed on the way back from Macon on my first (long) post rebuild run.
I'd start there, but you'll probably have to remove the alternator to fit the new regulator pack.

Happy hunting...

Quite a few years ago, I was in conversation with the Service Manager at my friendly Renault garage and ABS problems came up, and I remember him saying to me that a common problem was dirty sensors and toothed wheels. He told me that before going too deep with fault finding, it was their practice to clean the toothed wheels and the actual sensors, ....... rust on the toothed wheel, and metallic pickup on the sensor magnets can reduce the amplitude of the pulses.
Worth a look.

But I'm thinking that would only happen once on the move surely John? You're right though, I just had to have one replaced on the M3. Bit worrying when the stability control uses it too and it kept cutting the power mid corner.

Thanks Lee

Do you have any eBay links by chance ? ;0)

Cheers
Brad

Thanks John

I cleaned up the toothed wheels and sensors a few years back. I sometimes think ABS on a GTA was a painful option ;0)

Just checked and mine although having air con and abs came out of the factory with 90amp (see picture below) ? So not all Air con cars have 110amp. I assume this was because the air con was retro fitted in the UK on UK cars ? I think my unit below is now 7701499494 at Renault?

[mettersl]

Hi Brad, assuming its the Paris-Rhone/valeo/marelli alternator then this part should work (or did on my 90 amp 1990 GTA atmo alternator)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-12 ... 3049396043.
A whopping 13.39 including postage.
Good luck...its got to be a connection or something silly.....
Lee

Thanks Lee