New to Renault, Clutch Replacement Advice

lee.crowston@sky.com

Do you know why the clutch has gone at 50K km?

Turbo clutches regularly last more than 100,000 miles..... what are the symtoms? It's all hydraulic so you may want to check slave and master cylinders for leaks first before you drop the guts out.

Also fork arms can break in which case it is a lump out job. Master cylinder is easy to get at though and slave is possible in situ if you have removed the turbo.

If it is only the clutch that has to be changed, having checked out the hydraulics as Darren suggests, it might be worth considering just lifting the engine alone out through the rear hatch ..... that way you do not have to disturb the brake lines etc. All you need is a scissor jack to support the bell housing, and an engine hoist ... borrowed if possible.
I raised the car on 4 x 2 inch pieces of wood, this just gives you sufficient room to get to the "D" plate at the bottom of the bell housing which must be removed in order to be able to detach the engine from the bell housing.
If however, you find that you have to remove the gearbox for some reason or another, it is then an easy job to get at and remove.
The choice is yours.

Darren,

Slipping under load. Hydraulics working fine. Probably the DPO (dreaded previous owner) thrashed it hence the good deal. Once the clutch goes in I think it will be fine.

Sounds likely then.

Best test to be sure (assuming you can drive it at the moment) is to put it in 5th and floor it at about 30mph, as the boost comes in around 2000rpm onwards you'll see the revs flare and feel it slip. Worth double checking.

Could be contamination on the plate / flywheel, but then it's probably an engine out job to address that anyway.

For the record though the clutches last extremely well on these. Last time I changed mine I regretted it really (only did it as the engine / box was out). Clutch looked brand new after nearly 90,000 miles, and the one that went in isn't as nice

You can put an A610 clutch in, makes it a bit heavier as it lacks the helper spring but I've always stuck to standard turbo clutches. Good luck - you'll be fine. If you've done clutches before then the GTA isn't really that tricky, the whole rear assembly will come out on the subframe as Lee said, or you can go the engine out via the hatch as John's pointed out.

I'd go the former as it then gives you access to the whole running gear if you want to replace anything while it's on the ground. Also putting the engine back in via the hatch can be a tricky to make the splines align, I'm sure John probably has a trick up his sleeve there (plus he has the patience of a saint as we all know since he can fix French electrics and put up with us lot )

JohnC,

That might be a more viable option I think and I am considering it. I don't think I have the equipment to support the car that high (jack stands, etc.) without feeling a bit unsafe. I think the other hydraulics are in good order but I will inspect to make sure. That leads me to think that while everything is out, is it a good time to rebuild or replace the slave cylinder.....

Darren,

I will do a confirmation test on Saturday, although all signs point to an engine removal of some sort. As I mentioned above, keeping the vehicle safely raised is my main priority. I have done at least 100 clutches of various types, but had a lift available for those pesky ones like this. I can do my MGA in the driveway blindfolded. Had to tackle that one twice in recent years; once for contamination, and once when I replaced the gearbox (for good measure).

First order of business is to get the parts I need!

I'm sure John probably has a trick up his sleeve there

Hey ... its not that difficult, just turn the flywheel so that a spline groove is uppermost, then turn the gearbox shaft so the the corresponding spline ridge is also vertical, offer it up, give a little wiggle, then in it slides .
The reason I would do it this way is that you can do the whole job by yourself with no real heavy lifting, but I do take the silencer off first leaving sufficient room for the engine to be moved towards the rear to release the spline.

Any special gaskets etc. I will need to replace the silencer when putting everything back together?

According to the parts book, there are no gaskets as we understand them, but there seems to be a type of coupler to attach the pipe to the silencer which may or may not need replacing depending on its condition once it is removed. Clee might be able to tell you whether it is necessary to replace or refit the old one.

Silly question for my clarification, does the engine need to be completely removed or can it slide back enough in the bay with the silencer removed to get everything removed/replaced? Maybe best just to pull it all the way out and set it to the side?

Tommy

Depends how tight the cover plate bolts are .....some are OK and come out fine others not ,caphead screws and the hex can round quite easily if tight ...+ you might want to do the rear seal whilst in there and it's all easier with it out out ,
Exhaust coupler is a big solid affair,steel ring and clamp ,just don't lose it

Just going to pull it. You guys are the best, thank you again. A parts list is on its way to Clee. However, last night while "testing" the clutch one last time (it's done) I blew a coolant hose. It was the secondary hose from the right side radiator hose that feeds the heater core. It was a pretty dramatic burst if I do say so. Anyway, mystery of the inop heater solved. The heater core must be bad as it was plugged off and the hoses looped around and bypassed. Now the big question; how tough is it to change the heater core and how much will parts cost? I may just bypass it again if is not economically practical.

And for the lump removal, has anyone used straps vice chains, and where is the best point to mount the chains and/or straps?

Heater matrix is a nice cheap item but ....getting to it is a pain .Dash and tunnel out/moved .I can send you a matrix for when you are feeling bored .....
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4206

Engine should have some lifting eyes attached to it on the inner side of the heads front and rear .Chains with a bolt through .

Hahaha, that's it exactly. OK, not feeling like that job right now. I'll pop the liner in my Barbour to stay warm. I can get by but I might order one in the future.

Since it was already looped and the strategically bent hose will be a pain to replace, what do you think about simply blocking off both heater lines at their sources? Serves the same purpose, just no loop and I will be back on the road right away...still sans heater.

Took a look and found the hooks. Should have paid more attention! Thank you.

Finally, some pics.