A610 Clutch Issue

[BIG_MVS]

I have a slight problem with my clutch.

After some hard driving on the tour yesterday AM I came back to my car after a couple of hours in Portmerion to find no clutch pedal (it went straight to the floor). Pumped it a few times and it came back, phew

All was well again (including a hard drive home with mr Black )until this morning when I came to move it no clutch pedal again, a few pumps and it was back.

I'm guessing the clutch fluid is boiling under extreme conditions (not done it before now with my normal captain slow driving). I'm going to replace it at some point with fresh dot5. Anyone else any ideas though and had it before? It's not losing any fluid so I'm guessing all is well with the master/slave.

Could be a seal in either the master or slave on the way out .It did it cold this morning ?

[BIG_MVS]

I've had this before. Bleeding the clutch sorted it for a while but then it went again after a few weeks. I ended up replacing the master cylinder which was easy to get at and not too expensive from memory.

As A610beaver said. Also check your foot well behind the plastic panel for signs of fluid leaking from the master cylinder.

The master cylinder I got for mine/Rob's was several hundred.

[stephendell]

Happened to me also at Bruntingthorpe.

Replaced all the cheap Dot 5.1 with expensive high boiling point Dot 4.0 race fluid, pressure bled the system and has been fine ever since.

Clutch has started to slip slightly now though under high load but at 93K miles now I guess it's had a good innings!

Does make you wonder about low mileage cars though. I've not even had mine three years and have still put 20K miles on the clock. It's not even a second or third car and is hardly used and the mileage still racks up.

Macon once and Le Mans twice will have added a few miles though I guess.

[BIG_MVS]

How much clutch fluid do I need to buy?

I'll try that first if not change the master.

Martin, this type of fault can be caused by the master cylinder not fully returning back to its normal position....check if there is anything stopping the pedal returning fully....pebble, crap etc, or just lack of lubrication of the pedal...a long shot but worth checking

[stephendell]

One litre as a minimum really. Buy two and then you can break into the second one if you need to.

Do all the brakes too and get all the old stuff out of the system.

ATE super blue racing is the best price / performance compromise and can be bought relatively cheaply from euro car parts.

There is an identical version with yellow instead of blue dye but it is not labelled as racing and is sometimes a couple of pounds cheaper. Check the boiling points on the cans to make sure it is the same stuff.

They also do a slightly cheaper version with a lower boiling point and a special ABS fluid but again lower boiling point.

All the cans look similar so choose carefully.

I use Motul RBF 600 but it's not cheap at about twice the price of the ATE .
30C higher temp rated so probably overkill for BIGMVEESSESESESESSS

[BIG_MVS]

Cheers chaps, I'll look into it.

Or you can use the silicon fluid.
Non hydroscopic excuse the spelling works fine.

[stephendell]

Or you can use the silicon fluid.
Non hydroscopic excuse the spelling works fine.

A610 has ABS so silicone is a no no

Or you can use the silicon fluid.
Non hydroscopic excuse the spelling works fine.

Dave ..... it might be worth reading this:-



Also ...... I stand to be corrected here ...... but I seem to remember reading that all the seals, using a different construction compound, should be changed.

John