Bleedin Clutch

I had been having problems with my clutch slipping once the car was up to temperature and i knew it wasnt a worn clutch so after checking the forum i found the answer to my problem and basically needed to bleed the clutch to renew the 5year old+ clutch fliud.Not a problem except who ever bled it last cranked the bleed nipple up like his life depended on it and the bigger sheared ,so much for the nice drive this weekend.Has anyone had this problem happen on their car ? any info would be welcome.I was thinking of drilling the nipple out and re-tapping the thread,im guessing its an iso metric thread, unless someone has a better idea!!

Kevin the thread on the slave cylinder is Metric M7X1 , tapping size for this is dia 6.0 mm. Be careful not to drill too deep as you do not want to damage the seat. The seat taper is 90 degrees and starts at approximately 9.0mm deep . My slave or master cylinder went today, so I have taken them both out for inspection and will either replace or recondition them both . I am hoping that the seals are available over here. Does any body know whether the clutch master cylinder is common with any other Renaults ?
Good luck with your repairs Chris.

The master cylinder is an Alpine only part (only £63+VAT UK) but the slave is used on R25s etc...with the UN1

Kevin the thread on the slave cylinder is Metric M7X1 , tapping size for this is dia 6.0 mm. Be careful not to drill too deep as you do not want to damage the seat. The seat taper is 90 degrees and starts at approximately 9.0mm deep . My slave or master cylinder went today, so I have taken them both out for inspection and will either replace or recondition them both . I am hoping that the seals are available over here. Does any body know whether the clutch master cylinder is common with any other Renaults ?
Good luck with your repairs Chris.

Thanks for the info Chris, I see you have your own clutch problems too,I hope we are both back on the road soon...Kevin

Chris,
I used a Master Cylinder Exchange to stainless sleeve my brake and clutch master cylinders. Don't know if they have them down your end of the world, but I would suspect any of those type of groups would be able to do this for you. Approx $100 a cylinder recondioned.

Thanks Alan, I have obtained a seal kit for the slave cylinder R25 (thanks David) about 10 bucks down here. I have taken the master cylinder to a brake and clutch specialist to be repaired. Sleeving if need be.

I have just read about your dilemma.
Having had some experience with slipping clutches.
I find it hard to believe your problem to be with the clutch hydraulics. If there was an issue with the hydraulic system you would have problems trying to engage gear.
The fact you say your clutch only starts to slip when up to operating temperature. Would leave me to believe you have some form of oil leak on to the clutch plate possible crankshaft seal or gear box seal.

I have just read about your dilemma.
Having had some experience with slipping clutches.
I find it hard to believe your problem to be with the clutch hydraulics. If there was an issue with the hydraulic system you would have problems trying to engage gear.
The fact you say your clutch only starts to slip when up to operating temperature. Would leave me to believe you have some form of oil leak on to the clutch plate possible crankshaft seal or gear box seal.

This seems to be my problem! The clutch is not disengaging properly. It'll find gears easily enough when cold, but the moment she warms up 1st, 2nd and reverse are a nightmare to find. I've tried force bleeding the system, but to no avail. It feels almost like an automatic when I'm waiting at the lights with the clutch depressed, in that it creeps, and I have to blip the throttle to find the gears! Needs to get it sorted before the trip to London.
Richard has suggested a few possibilties, and as he said some are very possible and some unlikely. I'll have a go at investigating them and let you know how I get on. In the meantime I'm open to suggestion!

The first thing I noticed was my gear changes became difficult while driving. Then after stopping I couldn't get it into 1st or reverse without grinding. I took the slave & master cylinder out and took them to a brake and clutch specialist . The spring in the master cylinder was broken .
We matched the spring and all seals from various other cylinders .
Re-built for under 30 Aussie dollars. Much cheeper and easier than trying to get new cylinders.(for me).
Good luck with yours Chris

I finally found time to address my clutch/sheared bleed screw problem and it turned out to be not a problem at all. I just bled the clutch by using the pipe coupler on top of the alloy block that houses the bleed nipple.After all the black and very watery liquid stopped coming out and it changed nice clear hydrolic fluid i went out for a long test run and the slipping clutch had vanished.The clutch bite level is also lower now and its so much better to drive and much quicker as i could never transfer the power to the wheels properly,i can doughnut on a six pence now.
I got the info as to the cause of the problem from you guys and you were spot on so thanks heaps guys

[Alpineandy]

I trust you washed the old brake fluid off after, as it does nasty stuff (to paint especially).
Glad your on the road again.
Does that mean you'll be at the ACE meet?

I am hoping to be at the next ACE meet as i have a few minor glitches to correct before i drive to town,nothing too serious just more peace of mind.