GTA Le Mans Number 03 has a new owner!!

My car has the knob fitted as does Dave M's car. I did not think it was for the fan but would have never guessed it was for the aircon. (without following the wires).

Thanks for clearing that up.

ok ill stick with with to my spraygun

Martin you look a bit off colour Martin in your reflection compared to Andy any way

[phildini]

Would still love a Le Mans.......................

Would still love a Le Mans.......................

Bye bye Fezza .....stick to what you know Phil

When is the Le Mans next big Birthday?

It would be great to see to see so many fantastic looking cars all together in the one place ....please don't tell me it was last year


si21

Okay Guys

A big THANKS for the feed back in the earlier post.

Now for a new one, any ideas on what are the most likely causes of the SERVICE light flickering on and off in company with the Electronic Incident Warning Light? I know it is likely to be referring to something in the engine bay but I do not really know where to start, the Lambda Probe was loose and this has now been tightened up, it did seem to reduce the frequency of the lights flashing but not stop them.

Regards

Paul.

Greetings most learned gentlemen.

I have a few more questions of the what do you think, or how do I fix this or that variety to come in the near future, but for now I would like to offer another fault for your consideration, this one is driving me nuts at the moment.

The passenger door is not working via the electronic "blipper", it can only be locked externally using the key in what is a very stiff lock, it has already had a lot of WD40 to try and ease it and the key does now turn in the lock, but it is still quite stiff. When the passenger door has remained locked when I used the “blipper” to enter the car from the driver’s side and I reach over to unlock the passenger’s door using the release handle on that door, I can hear a whirring as the door opens. Any Ideas on where to start please?

Paul,

Okay Guys

A big THANKS for the feed back in the earlier post.

Now for a new one, any ideas on what are the most likely causes of the SERVICE light flickering on and off in company with the Electronic Incident Warning Light? I know it is likely to be referring to something in the engine bay but I do not really know where to start, the Lambda Probe was loose and this has now been tightened up, it did seem to reduce the frequency of the lights flashing but not stop them.

Regards

Paul.

This could be any other sensor in the engine bay. I have had this light come on twice. Once was the cold-start sensor, which was sort of work-able-around-able for a bit. The other occasion was when the TDC / crank sensor went open circuit. This one is major and stops the engine, so as long as the engine is running OK, I don't think it will be that sensor.

I'm not sure what all the correct ohm-ages should be for the sensors but although there are a few, there are not that many - compared to modern cars! - so it will have to be a case of trial and error.

Greetings most learned gentlemen.

I have a few more questions of the what do you think, or how do I fix this or that variety to come in the near future, but for now I would like to offer another fault for your consideration, this one is driving me nuts at the moment.

The passenger door is not working via the electronic "blipper", it can only be locked externally using the key in what is a very stiff lock, it has already had a lot of WD40 to try and ease it and the key does now turn in the lock, but it is still quite stiff. When the passenger door has remained locked when I used the “blipper” to enter the car from the driver’s side and I reach over to unlock the passenger’s door using the release handle on that door, I can hear a whirring as the door opens. Any Ideas on where to start please?

Paul,

I have a similar intermittent fault on my passenger door. It's most likely earth contacts in the passenger door release motor. Sounds like it's not the motor itself as it works from the inside (as does mines) but more likely the wiring from the central locking.
Mine is similar in that if I open the car from the passenger side with the key (I don't have a plip), sometimes it feels heavy and then only the passenger door unlocks. It feels just like when you dis-connect the battery. A bit of WD40 in the lock mechanism and wiggling the key through the complete physical range of travel often brings it back. Probably a bit of switch cleaner in there would sort it for me.

I know it's not quite the same problem but hopefully gives you some ideas to look at.

The passenger door is not working via the electronic "blipper", it can only be locked externally using the key in what is a very stiff lock, it has already had a lot of WD40 to try and ease it and the key does now turn in the lock, but it is still quite stiff. When the passenger door has remained locked when I used the “blipper” to enter the car from the driver’s side and I reach over to unlock the passenger’s door using the release handle on that door, I can hear a whirring as the door opens. Any Ideas on where to start please?

Paul,

Paul, You have two things going on here. The fact that the passengers door will only lock/unlock via the key suggests that the lock/unlock solenoid is not working or has become disconnected.
Secondly, The fact that you can open the door with its own door release handle has no bearing on the lock solenoid. The key locked lock, is not hindered by the door opening motor, which you hear whirring therefore the door will open.
The door mechanism is protected by a type of plastic bag over it to stop water which might have entered via the actual push button, so spraying it with WD40 is unlikely to get to the right places.
The only real answer to this is to remove the side panel alongside the rear seat and see what has happened. Possibly the connector to the solenoid is corroded or fallen off. Below is a pic of the door mechanism which I hope will help you.

There is a typo on the pic which I have just noticed... for "f" read door opening motor ..... and for "c" lock/unlock solenoid.

Thank You both Jon & John

A little something for me to do at the weekend.

Thanks Again.

Paul.

ok ill stick with with to my spraygun

Don't want to worry you but thats a polishing mop yoiur holding - not a spaaygun

well spotted but thats the reflection from a ford alpine green plate glass mirror finish applied by my spraygun

well spotted but thats the reflection from a ford alpine green plate glass mirror finish applied by my spraygun

....
And then mopped flat

Hey Yoda.......whats with all the bad language.....what I want to know is if a type Bu-gger it comes up bigger on posts but if you type a swear word that relates to a Dageham dustbin it leaves the word alone unsensored
Moderator please when ever the F word is typed it should automatically read Dagenham Dustbin

Finally Got a photo in the forum. This is the one and only one I have taken at home.

The passenger door is not working via the electronic "blipper", it can only be locked externally using the key in what is a very stiff lock, it has already had a lot of WD40 to try and ease it and the key does now turn in the lock, but it is still quite stiff. When the passenger door has remained locked when I used the “blipper” to enter the car from the driver’s side and I reach over to unlock the passenger’s door using the release handle on that door, I can hear a whirring as the door opens. Any Ideas on where to start please?

Paul,

Paul, You have two things going on here. The fact that the passengers door will only lock/unlock via the key suggests that the lock/unlock solenoid is not working or has become disconnected.
Secondly, The fact that you can open the door with its own door release handle has no bearing on the lock solenoid. The key locked lock, is not hindered by the door opening motor, which you hear whirring therefore the door will open.
The door mechanism is protected by a type of plastic bag over it to stop water which might have entered via the actual push button, so spraying it with WD40 is unlikely to get to the right places.
The only real answer to this is to remove the side panel alongside the rear seat and see what has happened. Possibly the connector to the solenoid is corroded or fallen off. Below is a pic of the door mechanism which I hope will help you.

There is a typo on the pic which I have just noticed... for "f" read door opening motor ..... and for "c" lock/unlock solenoid.

Hi John

I took the rear seat and interior panels out of the Le Mans today and found that the electrical connections still connected. The unit tries to work when the blipper is pressed but the movement is 5mm tops compared to the approx 20mm of the other side. I have sprayed lots of WD-40 inside and out on several occasions today but it still does not lock on the blipper, but the key in the lock is now far easier and will now also lock both sides when it is turned. I have left the seat and panels off so that I can go back and respray at regular intervals during the week. Ultimately it seems to me that the mechanism, i.e. all of the little arms etc are stiff and this may be the cause, so fingers crossed maybe lots of WD-40 will help.

Paul.