DTA for a GTA

very quiet today......

...... any one out there?

You talkin to me

maybe

shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Oh.
So every one is now ears only (voyeur style), and no mouth

Hi MF

You have to rememeber, an ECU knows no difference between a n/a and FI vehicle, it is simply seeing a higher load pressure, and calculating what it needs accordingly. The Adaptronic is the only ecu on the market which will self map from basically ground up. Your point of can it be taken simply from the signal from a wideband sensor (I presume you mean full wideband) well yes, as this is what a tradtional RR operator would be taking his reading from anyway and adjusting a map manually. All the ECU is doing is simply taking away the user element if required. It really does work that well on the fueling, though ignition should always be done manually for safety..

The problem with RR's is, yes they are repeatable conditions, but not the best, and an engine tuned within an inch of its life on the rollers, will det out on the road.

Yes, you can datalog everything the ecu input/outputs. You can only log wastegate actuation, if it is controlled by the ecu. Tradition wastegate output will just show as a tradition load increase on the map.

Its not just a PRV designed ECU. There are many cars over the world running the units, european and Japanese. I have a friend that has just done 280bhp at 12psi, on a 1.8l turbo Renault F4R engine, and entirely self mapped for fueling.

I see it states semi-sequential for 6 cylinder, is that then paired injectors?

Yep, and you would need to fit a cam sensor too anyway. The original GTA ecu runs fully batched on all 6.

We know the plug in loom works because it did on Peters car, you found wiring faults in original car loom, which made the car not even run on the original ecu, so nothing to do with the plug in adaptor or Adaptronic, but you in your infinite wisdom and arrogance pulled apart the loom, adamant it was wrong, bodged it back together and charged Tony £1500 for the bother...and then didnt even bother to heatshrink any terminals, and promptly the solder joints fell off. Then the trigger wheel incident came down to the fact you left with wiring for it sitting on the exhaust and melted...

CHECK YOUR FACTS. You are wrong on just about every point.

1: The car would not *start* on the original ECU because the starter was shagged, and it cranked very slowwwwwly. I still have that starter if you'd like it.
2: The cost of the work was a lot less than £1500, was not just ECU work (eg battery, starter), and I only charged a fraction of the time it actually took AND subsequently re-wired it at no extra charge.
3: If you think that heatshrink made any of your original wiring "safe" (or that it has anything to do with keeping solder joins from falling off?!) you're mad. My brief, as I have stated before, was simply to "get it working" and I did not consider the job finished until the entire loom was re-wired.
4: Faults with the loom that you (or your mechanic) fitted included but weren't limited to

- When plugged in and ignition switched on, ECU did not power up, power supply on wrong pin.
- Ground supply to ECU connected to each other, but nothing else, least of all the car's ground, and as the ECU uses low side swtiches on most of its outputs, this is pretty critical
- One bank of injectors had no power supply because the wires had been soldered to the wrong pin (injectors are fired by switching the ground pin, the high side is constant with ignition)
- ignition output wire had been stripped and twisted together, and was about 2" shorter than all the other wires.

Even with all the above corrected, the thing still wouldn't start thanks to a very silly bit of config which I completely hold my hands up to taking ages to find - and which Andy himself didn't spot either.

The crank trigger - how on earth can you criticise me for something I didn't even fit - that you (or your bloke) did? Initially it worked even though it looked like a poorly fitted hubcap at 90mph, but the accelleration of the car caused the wiring to swing back against the exhaust. Eventually the wobble got progressively worse and the signal started dropping out.

Martin, Tony has two ecus of mine which are faulty from your hands, in a box in his garage,

WHAT?! One failed while I was using it, correct. From the word go, I reported TO YOU that the MAP signal was playing funny buggers. You told me to go ahead and use one of the second gen ECUs I had and you'd replace it. Which I did after the original ECU stopped accepting interrogation altogether.

THE OTHER WAS ALREADY IN A BOX IN THE CAR THAT YOU YOURSELF (OR YOUR BLOKE) BLEW UP BY DRIVING THE IGNITION OUTPUT DIRECTLY TO THE COIL - AND YOU YOURSELF TOLD ME THIS! I never touched it or even tried to use it...

and the one on his car currently, you also said was faulty as you said the lambda circuit wasnt working, which turned out to be you crimping the earth and live together.

Okay, I'll hold my hands up to this mistake. I admit I made what was a non-critical wiring mistake. And it was the lambda sensor's ouput connected to its shield, if you want to get technical.

I -suggested- early on that it might be the ECU but having got a PRV running an adaptronic with the same Lambda sensor, a quick swap over left me knowing that it must be wiring, and told Tony this.

I seem to recall that a small mistake was made on (what is now) your engine and that resulted in catastrophic failure. So how can you criticise my mistake, esp when you haven't personally done one yourself?

My car idles perfectly on Adaptronic so whats the deal?

Okay, just on that score, I challenge you to set Tony's idle up reliably, if it's okay with him

For the record, the Adaptronic is still a great piece of kit which I like using and would like to continue using.

Pink knickers anyone? ha-ha+

Indeed

Covering old ground here, but firstly no ecu can be directly fed to coil on a GTA turbo, Martin, as its not possible as you cannot wire directly to the coil. If I said the ecu was dead, why would have I sent it to you, eh?

Secondly, it has been said probably over 20 times, Tonys wiring was identical to Petes which worked first time, blah et infinitum....Whats more ironic, is I copied Pete's off Tonys, not the other way round..

Crank trigger wire? - You fitted the exhaust, you should have sorted this out, n'est pas?

As for the second ECU not responding, I only have your word for this. When I get it back, plug it in to my test rig, and it all powers up fine (which I bet it will) then Ill comment.

As for Petes engine having a 'catastrophic' mistake (I dont call 'smoking' a catastrophic mistake), yep....but that had nothing to do with my product, or installation... That was down to the mapping company. I feel your clutching at straws here...

'I admit I made what was a non-critical wiring mistake'

But Martin, your non critical wiring mistake resulted in me dishing you out 3 ecus, which are now second hand and can't be resold as new, all because you were too stubborn to check your wiring, and adamant as always that 'you were right' and 'I was wrong'....

As for Tony's car idling properly - well maybe if you had left my wiring alone it would have. You actually fitted a non GTA ISCV to the car, because you couldnt get it working with the original one, and it still doesnt work with the new one?? Im lost....