Aaaarrrghhhhh !!!!

send her over fella, you know it makes sense

I have about 3 different marks on various bits to set TDC

I dont mind which mark you use, just as long as you do the tests.I dont think we all want to go through this again
All the best Let us know how you get on.

If it makes you feel any better, I know someone who snapped a chain on a Z7U and didn't bend a single valve. I think you've just out on the valve timing and adjusted the tappets wrong...

Isn't that because the valves can't touch the pistons on the v6 engine even if they are fully open?

They definitely touch on a NA engine...

......and the pistons on the turbo engine come above the liner........

What's concerning me is I KNOW the sprocket marks align on this build .The only difference is where in the cycle they occur relative to each other .
As for interference ,the pistons finish at the liner lip ,the dome protrudes 3 odd mm .I can set up a head on the bench so I can see the max lift and then we'll all know ..............

What's concerning me is I KNOW the sprocket marks align on this build .The only difference is where in the cycle they occur relative to each other .

In which case, you can't have bent a valve, but you almost certainly will have mis-adjusted every tappet on one bank.

Lee
Once you have corrected the prob, and done the tests, do a compression test on all cylinders. That will show if there is a bent valve. Do all this before you put it all back together. otherwise......................

I have about 3 different marks on various bits to set TDC Jon .Pulley mount trigger wheel ,exposed back face of flywheel and a pulley notch set to a screw hole in the timing cover

Its amazing what you think about when you first wake up in the morning For the tests to be of value, TDC must be set with reference to the crank (or flywheel, if it cant go on incorrectly) not any other point which is driven by teeth, chain, or bolted on etc.

I know what you mean ............Awake at 5 having a damn good think .
I'm not happy with # 1 at all , something is amiss .By the time I've pissed about trying to get covers off and mainly trying to see and align the chains/sprockets/tensioner in-situ I might as well take the fecker out .....................
I'd be happier doing it on the stand and I can see a lot more .It'll come out the top in an hour ,it's the putting back in that takes the time .

I'm not happy with # 1 at all , something is amiss

Morning Lee
I would not worry too much about No. 1 at the moment. When you checked the gaps, they were not out to any extent, as you said, 0.001 difference might just be your feel (if you know what I mean), which indicates to me that the chances of the valves being bent are remote. I would refit the camshaft correctly, do the tests, then a compression test......that should check the valves are seating correctly. The fact there is no compression on No. 1 at the moment, is to be expected with the camshaft 180` out. But you are right, it might be easier with the lump out. Only sorry I cant help you to put it back in, but I am sure someone around your area can help.......................Any offers
John

I need to double check what rocks 360 round from where it is at present with 1and 5 rocking .I don't know where I am at present .

If not, I would check the height of the pushrod cup above the head when fully up,

Oops, just looking at the manual again, noticed there are no pushrods. You can tell how long ago it was when I last did the tappets. Sorry Guys

I need to double check what rocks 360 round from where it is at present with 1and 5 rocking .I don't know where I am at present .

What I would do is:- we know the RH camshaft is out, so turn the engine to TDC when 5 is in the rock,(which is on the LHS)..... Then turn engine 360`..... then with chain off... turn RH camshaft 180` to where No.1 is on the rock. Reattach camshaft and check.... Clearly I dont know the details of how you physically do this with regard to what bolts on where, but I am sure you grasp the principal. Good Luck
John