i know its not a gta but?????

Believe it or not, the problem is not always around the intercooler design. Because I can touch the face of the intercooler on my car, I can feel the hot inlet side, and the cooler outlet side. The problem is, after a while of driving, the 'V6' pipe is actually far hotter than the cold side of the intercooler (sometimes to hot to touch), just through ambient engine bay tems, meaning the intake charge is getting warmed back up after the intercooler has done its job. This then heats up the throttle body to a high degree and triggers the ignition retard through the air inlet sensor, thus where the loss of power comes from. I have never had it where the intercooler has become saturated with heat.

I have been running lately with no engine cover, and engine temps have taken far longer to rise, and stayed more stable, even on hot days..I would like to experiment in cutting down the V6 pipe, and replacing the main bulk of it with silicone replacement as it wont absorb as much ambient heat, and even insulate the main 'Turbo' pipe...

Ive followed Davids lead and dumped the engine cover..and gone further by wrapping the whole exhaust system and junking as much shielding and brackets around the engine to improve airflow. I also run the rear window about 1cm open again to encourage airflow. Ive painted the V6 pipe silver and am considering how to heat proof it further. Ive removed most of the fibreglass from in front of the intercooler and ran ducting up to it from under the car......its all helped and with the exception of the exhaust wrap was almost free of cost.

How thick is the V6 casting ? If thick enough you could poss create a
bloody great heat sink from it.Ali conducts heat 10x better than steel and the greater the surface area the greater the heat dissipation.All you would need to do is slot thro (a basic milling job ) and then polish as best as you can , believe me it's tedious .

How thick is the V6 casting ? If thick enough you could poss create a
bloody great heat sink from it.Ali conducts heat 10x better than steel and the greater the surface area the greater the heat dissipation.All you would need to do is slot thro (a basic milling job ) and then polish as best as you can , believe me it's tedious .

yep, but the problem is also absorbtion of the engine bay heat, so wouldnt 'finning' it absorb more heat?. The heat we are trying to lose is external, so it would seem better to polish it as you've said (or silver rather than black paint), or change materials altogether..

Someone told me about a car that had an additional vertical bulkhead built between the engine and the spare wheel. The spare wheel was removed and an electric rad fan was installed into a large hole in this new buldhead. This fan drew lots of engine heat from the engine bay and forced it down and out of the bottom of where the spare wheel used to be.
I would have thought that a bit of shielding around the base of the engine would also be required to try and stop air just being sucked up from the LH side of the engine only and to try and promote air flow up the RH side of the engine and over the top.

It should still work as a heat sink as its the greater surface area that you're looking for, so the build up will not be as concentrated thus lowering the overall temp.

Someone told me about a car that had an additional vertical bulkhead built between the engine and the spare wheel. The spare wheel was removed and an electric rad fan was installed into a large hole in this new buldhead. This fan drew lots of engine heat from the engine bay and forced it down and out of the bottom of where the spare wheel used to be.
I would have thought that a bit of shielding around the base of the engine would also be required to try and stop air just being sucked up from the LH side of the engine only and to try and promote air flow up the RH side of the engine and over the top.

Twas I.

It would actually be quite simple to replace most of the V6 pipe with a silisone one. You'd just have to cut down what was there and then machine it to a rouns shape and bobs your uncle. Personally I will probably just go for heat wrapping of some sort.

[Alpineandy]

Ive painted the V6 pipe silver and am considering how to heat proof it further.

Would this help?
http://www.agriemach.com/product_info.p ... cts_id=698

had seen this at Demontweeks before and was considering something like it.....but cheaper!!!

David, did you try to post an image of it? 'cos nothing is shown.

There you go....

mmmmmm! Very nice bay! Liking the hoses!

this subject seems to have taken a sideways path???how much of this applicable to my 25,the heat wrap sounds interesting,but i can,t get my head around wraping the manifolds??/surely this keeps the heat in,and the temps go through the roof???at the moment i have a blled valve,fuel cutout device,new ecu,uprated air filter insert,the first few items are un fitted yet,but want to get things together first and spend some time/money doing it correctly,so whats first??and what would be best to heat wrap??

[Alpineandy]

but i can't get my head around wraping the manifolds??/surely this keeps the heat in,and the temps go through the roof??? what would be best to heat wrap??

Wrapping the exhaust manifold keeps the heat in the pipe to exit thro the exhaust instead of warming up the engine bay.
I don't know how important it is on a front engined car where there's a reasonable amount of air flowing already, but it does make a difference on a rear engine. I'm sure others here can tell you though.

I used : http://www.agriemach.com/product_info.p ... cts_id=363