GTA Le Mans Number 03 has a new owner!!

you want the testing station address don't you paul

you want the testing station address don't you paul

Mmmm perhaps!

Might be useful, you never know.

Does this mean the solenoid is defective and needs to be replaced?

It looks fairly conclusive Paul, I think you will have to try a new one.... if they are still available. They are handed though, but I did read that the only difference was the little white lever on the solenoid body the other side of the top protrusion..... however I remember that another owner said he was able to change the lever from one side to the other. I also notice that its part No. is 77.01 034 489 now, and is the same for both sides, but the two previous part No`s. now superseded, for each side, were different.
Thanks for the pics, clearly yours is for the later type of lock going on the design of the manual lock button, (the same as mine) and Clee`s pic is for the earlier type. I have taken the liberty of saving one pic for future reference.
Let us know how you get on.

John

A quick update folks.

Today, after the Indian GP I was able to get stuck into my passenger door. As I am sure you will all remember this door would not lock remotely either by the blipper or by locking the driver’s door with the key. But with JohnC’s help it was traced to a defective locking solenoid, I bought one from the site’s resident purveyor of “Pre-Owned” parts, BIG_MVS!!. The end result is the passenger door is now working just as it should and I was able to re-assemble the interior, so now it looks the bizz again.

Thanks is due to JohnC for all his work in the fault diagnosis and BIG_MVS for the part, thanks guys.

Flushed with success after the passenger door, I decided to take the door cards off to have a look at the lazy electric windows but fell at the first hurdle on both doors! After checking out the M.R. 273 manual I began at the screw for the door mirror cover, firstly I was surprised to find a Phillips screw and not a torque screw, next I discovered that the screw was so tight I could not budge it, so when the screw driver had slipped out of the screw head twice I gave up and tried the other door only to find the same thing, a seriously tight Phillips screw. So I gave up and tidied the tools away. Are these screws meant to be Phillips and obviously they are not meant to be that tight either?

[BIG_MVS]

Glad it worked and fixed your problem

The door mirror cover does have a long philips screw so that is correct. I suggest you need 3 x these tomorrow for breakfast

.....a seriously tight Phillips screw.

Paul, the only thing I would suggest seeing that your Phillips screwdriver keeps slipping out of the screw head, is possibly you have not got the correct Phillips type driver.... there are many types and sizes of cross head screws and from my experience if you have not got the correct bit for the head, it will slip out if the screw is tight, however with the correct fit, it will usually extract the screw.

P.S. Glad to hear your door lock works now.

Glad it worked and fixed your problem

The door mirror cover does have a long philips screw so that is correct. I suggest you need 3 x these tomorrow for breakfast

Do you think I might get away with 3 shredded wheat instead?

.....a seriously tight Phillips screw.

Paul, the only thing I would suggest seeing that your Phillips screwdriver keeps slipping out of the screw head, is possibly you have not got the correct Phillips type driver.... there are many types and sizes of cross head screws and from my experience if you have not got the correct bit for the head, it will slip out if the screw is tight, however with the correct fit, it will usually extract the screw.

P.S. Glad to hear your door lock works now.

Guess I will have to dig out my bit and driver set to see if it is a phillips or maybe a posidrive.

The door mirror cover does have a long philips screw so that is correct.

Um..... just checked.....mine is a T20 Torx..... perhaps it is due to model year.... mine is late.

Pretty sure mine is a T20 too. Perhaps if it's been out before it's been replaced by a Philips?

However, when I did remove mine, those screws were both in REALLY tight. I think there was some surface rust on the screw when it came out that won't have helped. I tend to put copper grease on everything I put back now.

Pretty sure mine is a T20 too. Perhaps if it's been out before it's been replaced by a Philips?

However, when I did remove mine, those screws were both in REALLY tight. I think there was some surface rust on the screw when it came out that won't have helped. I tend to put copper grease on everything I put back now.

Hmm, I am 99.9% certain they were Philip's or at least crosshead, I will check again wearing my "up close" glasses on Friday as it is now too dark when I get home, but I have an early finish on Friday,

The copper grease thing, I have been doing that for a while now on my kit car rebuild, and did so when I replaced the rear seats on the Le Mans at the weekend.

[BIG_MVS]

Maybe the torx are getting replaced with philips as they get mashed when removed. JohnC and Jonc must have "Pure" virgin examples

its a screw you are coming off you ba@///d

its a screw you are coming off you ba@///d

Sorry to Hi Jack the thread but I don't seem to have permission to post a new thread on the for sale area.

I am selling the D502 Alpine GTA motor, ecu, loom and oval build plate that came out of one of the three right hand drive cars bought into the uk with all other parts that I have belonging to the engine.

I heard that Pat Fitz was interested but do not know how to contact him.

Any help on finding an owner for this unusual and rare engine would be much appreciated.


Tim Shettle
07810320464

I have sent Pat an email, he might reply. He has your mobile number as I copied and pasted your forum submission into the email.