Martin’s PRV bone yard…

Hi Eddie,
You should have said you were passing through, pity. Second time at that, as I only found out you had been over to Chris after you had been. I knew it was pending by didn't get to hear it was confirmed, would have been good to catch up... nay mind

Glad your daily 24V is going well, and yes if the vac signal isn't stable it won't make a good primary input signal to derive engine load. This is the primary input for the Renix, but I’ll see first hand on Chris’s car and should be able to do something about that. Have you restricted the band the lambda sensor adjusts?

One thing I did noticed on the P4 TB manifolds is the injectors are aimed straight at the port wall in the head than the back of the inlet valve, do you anticipate any problems with this on Chris’s car?

Cheers,
Martin

Martin, I was under the impression from Chris. that you , if work permitted,would be at Bassingstoke the weekend I was there...not to worry ..we must keep more in touch...on Chris,s inlets..the charge air at mid to high revs.will take the atomised fuel round the inlet wall onto the back off the inlet valve...on the 24vl.yes my friend & I modified the Mega. quite a lot to suit the O2 sensor... which is now self learning...on the vaccum side we done away with the MAP. & run the engine on TPS. position...works very well...how near are you & Chris to firing up the P4..would be nice to here it on u-tube.
Cheers Eddie.

Hi Martin,

short question about the water y-divider between the heads, you was talking about.
Is the one on your P4 engine the oe-3lit version? If yes would it straight fit to the older variant? I think i was reading somewhere somewhen, that the 2.5l manifold would not fit anymore but i'm not sure.
Will you use an electrical waterpump for this engine?

The other question; my supplier has two e-waterpumps in his sortiment.
One is 80 lit./min
The other is 115 lit./min
I have no idea how much it needs and how much a mechanical one delivers.
The bigger the better, or is the 80lit already capable for overcooling

Hi Eddie,

P4 - yep will let you know Chris has a fair bit of plumbing (fuel, water and I think clutch release setup as well) and loom work to do in general, so he is getting on with that. I think he was looking at another 4 weeks or so before he would be ready to seriously look at getting it running though. After which point we'll start getting short on time, I do hope it's not another last minute thing though..

The R30 base plate and GTA have a 80mm difference in position on the engine mount points, so had to make up some adaptors. One of those things...

Afternoon Chris,

Yes the divider on the P4 is 3ltr OE except the straight section is a welded tube instead of the o-ring tube setup for the OE pump interface.

You can tell by the near 50:50 split when you look at it, and the short branches. It will swap with the 2.5ltr variant, same fixing to the block. If you are referring to my 2.5ltr with the 3ltr heads, then the issue was the 3ltr inlet manifold and swapping the TB to the opposite end of the plenum. This then clashed with the water pump position, left no room for it, so went electric. You can see it over here:

http://www.renaultalpineownersclub.com/ ... sc&start=0

Yes you can get the outlet pipe under the 2.5ltr manifold, but you need to make sure the pipe does not point up when you are doing the fabrication. Lee (Clee) and I had an issue with it on JIL when we were doing a mock up, it may be on this thread somewhere I forget:

http://www.renaultalpineownersclub.com/ ... php?t=4813

See this page:

http://www.renaultalpineownersclub.com/ ... l&start=75

But in essence if you mock it up before you do your welding etc you should be ok.. it is close though, but a man of your calibre should have it sorted I'm sure.

Go with the 115ltr unit, there is a few of us using them now. Tony Law has the 2.5ltr with the 3ltr divider setup like this ok, and he's also using the 115 pump. You want good flow and head pressure; keep the water wetted to the head around the exhaust valve seats. Don't forget to put it on a timer to run it on after the engine has shut down.

Hope this helps
Martin

Martin,
Do you run with the std.thermostat or do you use the by-pass system...ak BMW... I drew up for Chris..if so what size hole do you drill in the blanking plate in the thermostat housing...thinking off using an elec. pump in the 24vl.

Thanks for the kind of answer Martin, so will be a good solution then.
And yes EM Wynne's question (hello ) interesting point!
This, or the electronic controllbox EWP supplys, experiences?

good works Martin
...and my link is old and has some incorrect details ^^ i learnt a lot more since then..

Hi Andrea

Thanks to Stunned, you are a gentleman and a scholar ... anyway, nice thread Andrea

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2029- ... 1748-Italy

A610 clutch

Hi Eddie,

... we have sun today

I think Chris is following your diagram, and he has done some further research over on the GT40 forums. I do know what you mean, can't remember your sketch as I was a little bleary eyed when he showed me, as we had just worked over night... and I was off to do another that turned into a 26 hour marathon... I made up a Y joiner for the water exit from the heads, and I think this is the most important aspect as you need equal flow through each cylinder without bias, especially if you are pushing close to the limits of staying out of detonation.

I didn’t use a restrictor plate, I found having done this I didn’t need it. I didn’t want to drop the flow rate to the point that the coolant at the back of the exhaust seats was boiling, and hence keeping the heat trapped in the head (loss of wet flow), as you know. It worked fine no issue.

Chris to your point,

I didn’t use the controller although I had one, I didn’t want the added complexity and reliability issues associated. I just wanted to know it was on and working flat out. I wasn’t worried about over-cooling and HC emissions and the odd bit of fuel efficiency here and there for around town driving. In my opinion if you are using the right grade oil, and with modern technology advancement that isn’t difficult; warm up isn’t a problem either, you are far better off from an engine wear point of view to fire up and go.

Eddie, I would definitely use one on the 24V daily, and your twin turbo monster. It makes it easy to bleed, just run the pump without the engine running, and you have the benefit of protecting your engine and turbo on cool down by running after shut down. Plus you are moving some weight from the back of the car….

Here's an excellent link, thanks to Martin Stunned I came across this, good engine manual to down load:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/13720563/DeLore ... Hybrid.pdf

Enjoy - much better than the Renault equivalents, I have some others somewhere but will need to upload. I got a manual off EBay the other day for a Jeep, didn't realise they also used the PRV.

As another little side investigation, I have been testing various GTA / 610 clutch pressure plates with some interesting results…

So what news?! Do tell....

Answer: 1/3 extra pressure on the A610 backing plate... worth the money IMO

I think the helper spring on the clutch pedal gives that fact away

Hi Martin,

Thanks for confirming, i also think the simpler the better, so i'll go for that pump without the expenso contoller unit.
No more cooking turbo after running, and the watercooled WG's will also love it

Very interesting threads! Great that you summerize them in your bone yard thread! Structure

Yes David.

However, like a lot of members on here I don't know the 610 in detail (in fact in my case I have never been inside of one), I'm just looking at the components and assessing their worth directly. Just looking at a spring doesn't tell you how much addition force is applied, and hence whether it is worth using this clutch in your application against your torque demand does it - cost / technical performance question In this case I do think it is worth the additional cost if you don't want or need to go to something more exotic...

Yes David.

However, like a lot of members on here I don't know the 610 in detail (in fact in my case I have never been inside of one), I'm just looking at the components and assessing their worth directly. Just looking at a spring doesn't tell you how much addition force is applied, and hence whether it is worth using this clutch in your application against your torque demand does it - cost / technical performance question In this case I do think it is worth the additional cost if you don't want or need to go to something more exotic...

The Esprit S4S and 300 use the A610 clutch. If you go to some of the Esprit tuning sites like PUK Eprit they used to tell you the pressure plate rates.

Great to know, good to have a better option if you have to replace the clutch anyway. I did not see this discovered yet before, great that you guys did post here
however i'll need a more exotic option then, but we already know a route to go, right