MiNT 610

Re the bolts .you get two small and two large with the balljoint
The two that come with the balljoint are pressed into the joint body ,have a small dome head and yes consequently one is a bit short going through the tie arm .I may well knock it out and use another but the head of a std bolt bites the rubber of the BJ .
I put a longer one in the arms other hole and with all the other fixings will be OK .
I have replaced all the fixings I can source but some are hard to track down I've cleaned up a load for stock from old shitters .

This is 90% powdercoat as that what Richard wanted .UV stable .I've used hammerite ,two pack and,por15 and galv on various cars .POR 15 is en vouge with the forums atm .
Really depends on level of restore and prep , you can't blast hubs with the bearings in etc so are left with cleaning up with wire brush .Hammerite goes on to ' rusty' bits best .Elbow grease all the flakes and dust off then just straight on with a couple of coats .
Powdercoat will chip and can trap moisture between the skin .....
Take yer pick but anything is better than this

[phildini]

yeh ..I know ...and then the ar bar and then the subframe ....and then the crossmember ...and then the steering rack ...35/hr ....then 30 ..then 25 ...then 20... then ,where the feck did that fella go to that used to do that there stuff

Yeap, thats the problem I am finding with my car, all I seem to be doing for the last months is paint brackets and parts.....

How will the UV light effect the parts under the car when painted with POR15?? Yes it's a pain if it gets onto your skin, I have a big black mark on my leg after painting some parts yesterday and it will not shift, with anything!!

[phildini]

Shouldn't all the engine bits be in grey crinkle finish to be fully OEM.....

Yes I thought the customer was very particular about being ALL OEM!?!?

Nah ...he just didn't want to spoil his dash with bolt-on bits

I was just looking at my drop links and ARB today. Wire brush and hammerite seems the way to go. Thes is still all shiny

Forget Hammerite I have found it to be rubbish when used previoulsy (smooth black) only one way to go if you dont want to do it again in year or two's time POR 15, it an epoxy resin based finish

Its expensive but is worth using I have wishbones painted and you can attack it with a wire brush and it wont touch it. JL Engineering put me on to it.

Si21

POR 15 is horrid to work with. The 15 comes from the number of years to takes to remove from skin! It is good but needs a top coat to be UV stable IIRC, for easdily accessible bits hammerite every 2 years is fine.

One word Gloves Your supposed to paint the parts not yourself LOL To be honest if I paint something, I take it to bits spend hours wire brushing the crap off and the Hammerite appears to last less time than it took to prep it. I have 2 lower rear wishbones painted in POR 15 done before the rest of the subframe/suspension was painted, it was not done correctly as per the instructions, no acid etch primer, no uv lacquer and guess what ... perfect!! the other painted items are pithing me off already its been done 2 years now and considering the car was not used last year its coming off and rust showing through already....I just don't have the time to be disassembling repainting everything all the time, the paint finish has gone flat too ..POR 15 give it a rub/clean up and the finish shines right on through.

Hammerite has a crap curing time too and your knackered if you miss the window to re-coat, it then reacts if you do and it never covers properly in one coat! This I think is half the problem, due to my circumstances I never have time to give it loads of coats ..In retrospect I wish I had used PO15 as I will now have to get the crap off it all before repainting...mind you it'll probably fall off before get chance to paint it all again!!

Thats juts my experience, my 21 is exactly the same, hours of work and it does not look so great now

So my new moto is do it once and do it right..I cant be doing with the Forth Road Bridge painting schedule...start at one end ....keep going till you reach the other end ....then start all over again

Its ok for a quick fix but not on parts in harsh environments...its pants

si21 ...IMO of course

Yes it's a pain if it gets onto your skin, I have a big black mark on my leg after painting some parts yesterday and it will not shift, with anything!![/quote]

Phil
Try a file or skin graft

Si21

[phildini]

Nah ...he just didn't want to spoil his dash with bolt-on bits

Self adhesive

Cleaning out all the shite ...when will it end ?

[mettersl]

Its looking good and will look great when all together...even the non standard colours....my engine top cover has about 50% left and that comes off very easily if blown on let alone touched.
That underside shot- was it the same car? No centre covers so looks like a GTA to me?? (I am sounding very sad here, but I think I'm in company on that score).

Hammerite appears to last less time than it took to prep it.

Having been into boats for more years than I care to remember, Hammerite used to be the choice of owners, but now, over here, most boat owners use QD90 Metal and Machine paint. Easy to use straight on to bare metal having brushed off flaking rust etc. I have used it for years on fuel tanks and any non stainless steel metal work around the boat..... it is also used for trailers which are submerged when launching boats. It also does not have a tendency to pull back from edges like some other paints do. It is a one part paint with a gloss finish which I have found very effective.
FWIW ..... I suspect your POR 15 is still better, but QD90 instead of Hammerite would be my choice.

[BIG_MVS]

Its looking good and will look great when all together...even the non standard colours....my engine top cover has about 50% left and that comes off very easily if blown on let alone touched.
That underside shot- was it the same car? No centre covers so looks like a GTA to me?? (I am sounding very sad here, but I think I'm in company on that score).

GTA that is.

Clee which one is it? If it's slumdog I'll get me coat.....

GTA ,yes, surface shite really but doesn't look too pretty .
Slumdog is in bits and at the blasters ,engine at the machine shop and the burnt shelf chopped out and new installed .

.
Hi Lee,

So have you got a picture comparing the GTA and A610 hubs then?

Also the bracket at the back of the gearbox by the rear mount, is that a shunt stop?

Can we have some pictures of the differences between the two builds whilst you are doing this please?

Cheers,
Martin

Can do .

Pretty much the same just a bit beefier and bigger stronger bearings as you can see .

.
Are the lower and top arms the same then - fit and dimension, hence geometry? So a 610 hub would fit into a GTA setup? Just thinking...