D651WEY

Cedric, you are doing a great job mate.
Remember to pre oil turbo prior to starting, infact I think the book tells you to disconnect HEIU initially and turn over on the starter motor, to get oil pressure prior to starting fully, it also suggests squirting oil down where filter goes with a syringe to help prime pump. But my memory may be fading.

Also look into mikalor clips W2, they are amazing and might be prudent for the ones in the V. ( you don't want those leaking )
John Law got me into them, use demon tweaks but do not use any alternative.(my auto factors convinced me they had a good stainless steel alternative, don't be fooled I sent them straight back get the real deal, amazing clamps).

Note I hope you did not buy another water pump, that was only a year old when you bought the engine. I bought it new from Richard Walsh Ireland.

Glad you have copied stunned monkey on removing the double tooth on the fly wheel, this should eliminate all the issues with the crank pick up and was a no brainer due to engine being out.
Can't see why others don't do that? If I had remembered I would have asked john to do the same on my bi turbo.
Makes for a neater instal, is lighter & removes wires near the hot exhaust. Should be more accurate too due to having more teeth on a bigger wheel. Plus cheaper as less parts to precision make. Top job well done. Whoever reminded you of that deserves a beer. Has saved you a lot of dough and hassle, even if the parts were already there. You maybe able to flog them to lee, or another owner who want to go after market ECU, but doesn't want to remove engine.
Lightening flywheel to also a no brainer good thinking bat man, again something forgotten by myself.
Extra HP for no real effort. Cool.

Also regarding my offer to help you refit engine, this still stands. Would love to help you out. Even if I have to take a days leave will be there in a shot love to get my hands dirty. Currently though it might just be to make the brews haha but hopefully will be ok shortly.

Dave

Thanks Dave,

Yes I have squirted oil down the oil pump and planning to oil turbo before closing.

clips used are stainless hi-torque worm drives which should be ok for water pipes, definitely will use mikalor on air pipes after turbo...

Water pump is yours, just pimped

Yes machined flywheel should make things easier wish I could get the credit for all this but Martin F is the brain behind it all

Thanks again for your offer to help refit the engine i'll let you know in due time, plenty time for you to rest though

Cheers, Ced

Cedric, you are doing a great job mate.
Glad you have copied stunned monkey on removing the double tooth on the fly wheel, this should eliminate all the issues with the crank pick up and was a no brainer due to engine being out.
Can't see why others don't do that? If I had remembered I would have asked john to do the same on my bi turbo.
Makes for a neater instal, is lighter & removes wires near the hot exhaust. Should be more accurate too due to having more teeth on a bigger wheel. Plus cheaper as less parts to precision make. Top job well done. Whoever reminded you of that deserves a beer. Lightening flywheel to also a no brainer good thinking bat man, again something forgotten by myself.
Extra HP for no real effort. Cool.

Yes, a nice cool pint of Brains please ... I was thinking of more than one though sir

Flywheel, it's not free HP, more reduced parasitic loss whilst accelerating the mass, just give snappier throttle response mainly in the lower gears, which is what Cedric is after.

In terms of retaining the flywheel trigger, yes the accuracy of the ignition trigger signal will be much tighter, certainly less jitter, and there is another reason for that as well – and that was the main driver for doing it... part of the plan

Cheers,
Martin

Thanks Dave,

Yes I have squirted oil down the oil pump and planning to oil turbo before closing.

clips used are stainless hi-torque worm drives which should be ok for water pipes, definitely will use mikalor on air pipes after turbo...

Water pump is yours, just pimped

Yes machined flywheel should make things easier wish I could get the credit for all this but Martin F is the brain behind it all

Thanks again for your offer to help refit the engine i'll let you know in due time, plenty time for you to rest though

Cheers, Ced

Good stuff Cedric, it is coming together nicely and good credit goes to the effort you are putting in - pleasure to help, the outcome is in the quality of the baking and tying all the elements together in harmony... but it's looking good and I'm sure a good result will follow too

Cedric yes the picture you have just shown me is in fact my old fuel regulator.
Which proves my sanity, somebody owes me a beer or apology.

Haha no harm done simples just turn it up to number 11 to flow more fuel.

So what's this other reason Martin? Use an existing map from stunned monkey?
A way out suggestion would be to use it as a starting ring but not likely !

got the refurbed starter motor back, with new solenoid, looks better too



My HT leads were also made by Julie also ordered from DCPerformance and delivered within a week, brilliant



Subframe galvanised



and painted



others parts ready to be assembled



top rear wishbones



bottom ones also done



drive shafts and hubs before



and after



now need to replace the cv boots

picked up some replacement stainless water pipes that i had made by a local company, price is very competitive compared to Simon Auto... they look identical to the originals. i'll fit them shortly and will report back. if they fit fine i'll give you guys details










yesterday i received my birthday present this year was a big birthday and my friends and family got me this, yeah!!!

Cedric, regarding your drive shafts ensure no scoring on the end that go in the gearbox, also maybe prudent to replace the gearbox seals to the driveshaft shafts. Also oil or grease clutch input shaft, lightly(Alan Moore wrote something about it, if it was assembled dry can stick to clutch or something)

Dave

Hi Dave,

judging by the amount of oil on the gearbox and surroundings, I don't think the drive shafts seals weren't sealing very well so I do have a new set of seal to fit... Soon hopefully

Ced

Looking good Cedric, keep at it, I expect you are getting quite excitted now... nearly build back up time

Martin

You need a specific tool to seat the driveshaft seals squarely I believe, so might be easier to get a known specialist to do that.

Looking good Cedric, keep at it, I expect you are getting quite excitted now... nearly build back up time

Martin

Thanks Martin, yes I am getting quite excited and very impatient... Although its been a lot of fun and challenges, its starting to drag on a bit now and I would love to drive it again sometimes soon

You need a specific tool to seat the driveshaft seals squarely I believe, so might be easier to get a known specialist to do that.

noooooo! Don't have time for this.....

CV boots replaced...
Got covered in grease, yum!

Then got on with wrapping exhaust manifolds

071514003911.jpg

Now itchy as hell...

Cedric,
If you do need a Alpine specific type equipment ASTE, tool for gearbox seals, happy to pay half I need mine doing too.

A bit of progress but not quite enough to be ready for Origine RS

engine bay before





and a bit of rust down at the bottom...







so a lick of rust preventative





and top coat to match engine covers he he





water pipes back in, looks like they fit nicely





manifolds, heat shields, alternator, throttle, plenum back on









charge cooler is not fixed yet, looks like it is going to be a bit of a challenge to connect it...

While the tank is out i have also taken the opportunity to treat the metal work from the top



no pictures of after yet, was too dark when i finished last night...

brake master cylinder doesnt look so great? looks like it might have been leaking? what you guys think?



Arm brake cable snapped



where can i get a replacement?

now off on well deserved hol for 2 weeks then it might be time to put everything back together

Top job Cedric ,that all looks very well done .
Bolt up those pipes fully though to check fit .The pipe nearest the gear linkage rod ,LHS,where it goes into the tunnel .If the topmount bracket is not quite right ,level with the top of the pipe ,then when clamped in the bay it can rotate slightly and foul .....

SimonAuto for the cable ,although I may have an old serviceable one lyinmg around .