D651WEY

Removed battery tray to treat the surface rust...

Underneath the tray, a very clean earth connection

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No wonder the electrics are so reliable on this car...

Now question, how do I take those off?

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I have replacement thingies (sorry don't know what they're called) at the end but need to remove those knackered ones first and they don't look like they want to move..

Nice one Ced .Track rod ends ,they normally unscrew fairly easily .There are flats on the end of the arm right next to the nut so two spanners ,one hold the arm end, the other on the nut and once you break it they will just spin out .

Be easier if you reattach hub first and loosely fit ball joint. Plus soak in plus gas and heat. Also count the threads off so you can refit new ones in roughly the correct place. While your there check steering gaiters, might be advisable to replace too!

Thanks guys, will give it a go shortly..
Got some nice shinny ones from RATS to put on

Hi guys,
Any suggestions on how to undo a rounded off star head screw that holds a brake disc?

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Cheers

soak, then try to tap it round with a sharp point .Failing that you'll have to drill it out .

Any suggestions on how to undo a rounded off star head screw that holds a brake disc?

Tip 1.
Before ever attempting to undo these brake disc screws, get hold of a parallel punch just a bit smaller than the diameter of the screw head, and give the it a couple of smacks with a hammer.

Tip 2.
If you have torx bits ..... the type that fits into a holder. ..... get hold of the next size up and you might be able to hammer it into the damaged socket in the screw. I have used this method before and because the screw head is competitively soft compared to the Torx bit, it worked for me.
Worth a try.

Thanks guys, will give it a try....
unfortunately that's the biggest torx bit I have... might have to borrow one...
that's typical really, the other 7 came out without much effort...

Cedric,
Impact driver but if that fails just drill it, the head will fall off.
This will allow you to remove disc as well as get hold of more thread with some mole grip pliers.
It is not structural you don't have to refit it just helps align wheel nuts.
But it's best to keep if you can, you may be able to get to the back of the screw for more plus gas too.

Dave

.. ..... get hold of the next size up and you might be able to hammer it into the damaged socket in the screw.

PS. TIP 3.

If you do go down this route .......... once the larger bit is jammed into the rounded off Torx socket, do not use a small ratchet lever, or other means where by sideways pressure is applied to the Torx bit. Use a small socket and T Bar, ..... By using the T Bar, you will only apply rotary motion to the Torx bit and there won't be any sideways levering which tries to lever the bit out of its socket and in doing so damages the mating surfaces.
The same principle applies when unscrewing bleed nipples. I always crack them first with a socket and T Bar. If a small spanner is used there is a high degree of shearing motion which, if the nipple is tight, tends to lead to a sheared nipple.
Below is a pic of what I do when cracking a bleed nipple. This was on my Sirion and the nipples where tight but with this method there was a loud crack when they released, and they then unscrewed without damage.
I know that a bleed nipple is not quite the same, but the basic principle applies to tight Torx screws.

Good tip john,
on aircraft we had a special removal tool.
Basicaly it was a lever you screwed one end into a good thread(in this case either the other disc bolt fastening screw or a wheel nut thread, the socket and torq part was then on a sliding rail. With a hand lever at the other end.
This then enabled you to apply a lot of downward pressure and simple undo the stubborn screw. Our ASTE (Aircraft specific type equipment) tool was called a Sgt Fletcher no doubt the guy who built the first home made version. Used mainly for removing tri wings. Later we had a boeing specific tool which cost thousands and was only slightly better than our own creations. Below is a pic of a similar tool found on the net.

You will be amazed how the most things come loose by heating the outer part first.

well, it's been a very long time since i updated this thread... done some work though
although admitedly i didnt do much during the cold months....

so eventually got that torx bolt out, took the front wishbones, hubs etc off, refurbished and back in....

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New clio discs

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then refurbed some peugeot 406 coupe calipers

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The problem with those calipers is that they are a lot deeper than the original and the wheels i had wouldn't fit without any spacers and with a 20mm spacers would stick out of the arch too much... shame coz i really like those wheels...

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luckily i had a spare set of wheels that i intented to use with track tyres that fit OK with 10mm spacers and just about fit in the arches.... that will do for now...

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they should look good.... only problem is that they are very open so the calipers are very visible... which means that i have to refurb the rear calipers too so they dont look rubbish...

replaced the 1 radiator fan with 2 new ones

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And back in... made a few brackets and fitted the charge cooler rad too

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now will have to fit the air deflector thingy back in to direct the air flow onto the rads.

to improve the air flow / cooling, i decided to open the front bumper and relocate the number plate

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to do this i also had to cut the inner bumper, so made a bracket to keep the strength

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hopefully that will help keeping the temp down a bit...