Yes, Norway !

Managed to get my headlights from Simon Auto, so all sorted.
Norwegian inspectors noticed that the V5 had a digit wrong, so also waiting patiently for the DVLA to fix it.
It started VF1D, but should have started VFAD
They're not happy about the GAZ, so fighting with them about that, they want to see TUV certification for the individual kit, but GAZ don't offer that, their whole company is TUV approved. Got that certificate from GAZ, so it'll have to do. Have joined the Norwegian Alpine/ Renault club, so hopefully they can be a help.
They also weren't happy with the weights & dimensions I printed from the club page, and the fact that the wheels and tyres are different sizes from front to rear, and want to see manufacturer verified information.
Obviously, not easy to get, but I did buy a dealer brochure from Fleabay which covers all that, so if that doesn't count as "manufacturer verified data", I don't know what does
Damn beureacrats...................

What I need now are two things.
One is the drive belt tensioner, the triangular one.
Or, alternatively, if anyone can give me specs on the bearing, I'll just have a new one pressed in, there's enough machine shops around here, and I have a 20 ton press in the workshop at work.

The other, might be a bit more awkward.
When i was changing the head gaskets, I was a bit heavy handed and broke the water hose for the turbo cooling.
It starts under the intake, runs across the vee, then tees off to the turbo, and on to the oil cooler/filter.
Can't get images to load, but links below.

I managed to make a repair using pushfit plumbing fittings to get it going, and so far so good, but I don't trust it.

Anyone got one of these lying around on a dead engine ?
I need the flexi pipe which goes to the turbo too, I had to "alter" mine. You don't want to know !

Hit me up with a price for whatcha got including Norway postage.

Not really urgent, car is in winter storage so won't be out to play until March or April at the earliest.

https://flic.kr/p/pYtvuB
https://flic.kr/p/pYtxGH

Hi Bob

OOOPS sorry, I still have the pulley somewhere ,totally forgot .I will also look and see if I have one of those pipes but they are pretty rare ...you know why .
Will do it today ,promise

[BIG_MVS]

Welcome back Bob.

Sheesh they are a bit strict there in Norway? Hope it all gets sorted in time for spring play time.

Hi Bob

OOOPS sorry, I still have the pulley somewhere ,totally forgot .I will also look and see if I have one of those pipes but they are pretty rare ...you know why .
Will do it today ,promise

Cheers Lee, the pulley isn't really a big deal, it just sounds a bit dry, getting a bearing pressed on is an option, for all the car will be used, it'll prolly last another few years !

The hose tho, if I can't find one, I guess I have to try to manufacture one somehow, I reckon it would be possible with some ingenuity and some 15mm copper pipe.
(Taps pipe, strokes chin thoughtfully..............)

Maybe have to get into the MacGyver spirit.

Welcome back Bob.

Sheesh they are a bit strict there in Norway? Hope it all gets sorted in time for spring play time.

They are VERY strict.
I've heard cases of cars failing their inspection because they were painted a different colour than when they left the factory.
By all accounts, depends what tester you get.

It should be ok now for it's registration in spring, but one of the good things over here is that once you pay the import taxes, you can buy test plates, kinda like trade plates, they last for a day and are meant to be for things like test drives, but most folks use them for cars they can't get imported legally.

Mainly the sports cars and high power jobbies, Skylines, Imprezas etc, you need to be pretty well off to have a road legal one of those over here.

But, at 25 quid a pop, a pair of red plates for the weekend is an easy solution.

Re wheels / tyres being different sizes, the Le Mans ran 16/17s front to rear (I don't know what you're running) but that's common.

Some standard GTAs had optional BBS split rims - again similar I believe but Steve or someone could probably confirm.

Std GTA turbines so 15" all round .Not got a pipe going spare Bob all attached to lumps .

Std GTA turbines so 15" all round .Not got a pipe going spare Bob all attached to lumps .

Yeah, just stock, but because they are different width, (6 & 8j I think) & the tyres are different dimensions (195 & 225 50 x 15), they aren't happy.

So long as I can prove it's factory, it will be ok, Smart cars are ok here

There is a threat that they want to see all sorts of information about suspension geometry and how the GAZ has changed it, but I reckon it will be fine, got a few months to worry about it.

Thanks for checking on the pipe Lee, I'll track one down somewhere, otherwise it'll be a bit of a brainstorm to test the fabrication skills

Or you could just block it off .Earlier Turbos did not have water cooled units and I don't think it does much anyways .....From what I've seen a lot of them are clogged up a .Just block both pipes off .You will still have the feed from the heads to the oil cooler ,which if it was me I would also bin and pop in a U pipe bypass ala Cossie stylee


Cue the nerds ...."Well Renault must have put it there for a reason ...they wouldn't spend money on it ......"
RAT-IT

Cue the nerds ...."Well Renault must have put it there for a reason ...they wouldn't spend money on it ......"

Nerd No. 1 responds

Bearing Housing – carbonised oil blockage in the galleries


Bearing housing blocked with carbonised oil
In this example, you can see that the bearing housing galleries have become completely blocked and choked up with carbonised oil.

Whilst build up of oil in the bearing housing like this has a number of causes, the most common are a lack of regular servicing, infrequent oil changes, overheating of oil, and engine breather problems that cause oil to be held in the bearing housing as opposed to flowing through it.

In addition to affecting the efficiency and output of the turbocharger, carbonised oil build up will also cause wear damage, as the oil bakes solid, and gets stuck in the housing. In turn, this prevents clean oil from flowing to the bearings, reducing lubrication and increasing damage from wear and erosion.

If this problem is caught early enough, it can be solved by carefully cleaning the bearing housing and removing the blockage, but in some cases, the resulting wear will mean that the housing and bearings need to be replaced.

Sorry Lee.

Sorry for what ?

If you are that worried about oil overheating to that extent on a GTA then I'd install a proper oil cooler matrix rather than a piddly little pisspot that when the rot ( and they do) drop water into your oil .....and as I said most of the waterfed turbos I've had off are clogged up solid so in effect don't get any water cooling anyway .
As for turbo life ,better to leave running for 5 mins and let the oil take the heat away as that article states ....it's all about OIL CONDITION AND FLOW

Real life not book read

The other, might be a bit more awkward.
When i was changing the head gaskets, I was a bit heavy handed and broke the water hose for the turbo cooling.
It starts under the intake, runs across the vee, then tees off to the turbo, and on to the oil cooler/filter.

Bob, Would it not be possible to have the broken off piece brazed, or if stainless, welded back on. I does not look too damaged from the picture ? I would have thought that it could be repaired successfully having first undone the coupling to the flexible pipe.

.
Yep, see 3/4 down the page:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5612&start=210

Regards,
Martin

[phildini]

The other, might be a bit more awkward.
When i was changing the head gaskets, I was a bit heavy handed and broke the water hose for the turbo cooling.
It starts under the intake, runs across the vee, then tees off to the turbo, and on to the oil cooler/filter.

Bob, Would it not be possible to have the broken off piece brazed, or if stainless, welded back on. I does not look too damaged from the picture ? I would have thought that it could be repaired successfully having first undone the coupling to the flexible pipe.

I am in the middle of replacing that pipe too, £100 from Simon autos, plus you need gaskets for other parts you will be removing, so you can get it out!

I can't braze it, I'm afraid, I needed the car going so had to butcher it to make a temporary hose arrangement. There isn't really much left.
It's not pretty, but works, It just sits a little too close to the exhaust for comfort.

Good to know that Simon Auto has them tho, I might give him a shout.

Gonna have a go at fabricating one from scratch in the spring, but I can't even get to the car for now, it's right at the back of the storage hall.

So far as bypassing it altogether, I might, it depends on what I'll be using the car for, if it's just a short pootle to work, or a cruise to a show, then I think it would be fine with no water cooling, but if I start using it regular, or long distance, or driving "enthusiastically" on a regular basis, I think I'd feel safer if it had it.
Perhaps this can be seen as an opportunity to redisign the turbo cooling..................