E200JVV GTA TURBO Resto

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Yep that's the MAP sensor signal barstidos pcb board, please bin it, should not be allowed out or resold, need to cut this cancer from getting banded about as "tuning".... the cut connector pin is the MAP sensor input (modified by the board), pin 33 from memory, and the other two leads are soldered to the power pins simply 0v and 12v for the great swindle board power rails, no need to post pics unless folk are unsure what it looks like... I think I've still got one here...

hey ho... sorry, I will let you get back to your flow and timeline, enjoying the story

[Alpineandy]

I notice that the new practical classics mag has a very nice Dauphine resto and it mentions his son having a GTA and a taste for engine rebuilds in his conservatory!

Which issue is that? I thought it was going to be Feb, ' Oh and we'll send you a copy of the photos and of the mag blah blah blah'.............nowt.... nothing.....used like a cheap tart.

[Alpineandy]

Feb issue subscription came in the post this morning.

Now come on calling a bloke a tart when he's already said it is one thing ..................but Manchester!.......that's too far, wrong side of the Pennines .I'm an exiled South Yorkshireman or as my granddad used to say .........
Yorkshire born, Derbyshire bred, strong in shoulder. thick in 'ed!

I'm currently in discussion/Pm'ing JohnC re inop speedo so these pics are more for John than anyone else, but in removing the speedo cluster to do some testing and connector checking I noticed this rather afterthoughtish pic of circuitry, namely the white square two pinned summot soldered across two legs of the small black chippy thing that in turn has a resistor on one leg jumpered to something else.................can't be right can it?
And one leg has come adrift.........
Pic one


Pic two


Pic three

Hi Ryan

Well ... that's the third design of speedo board I have come across, (all doing the same thing) ..... even without the mod.
First thing I must ask, before you started on the car renovation, was the speedo working and reasonably accurate ? On my spare board I have here, there is a somewhat similar mod (in a different place) which can be an after production mod for some reason or another, which might have led to a permanent circuit modification in later boards ..... or a bodge to get it working. If it worked before the renovation, then one can only assume it was done on purpose and it worked.
Like I suggested in my PM, with the rear of the car on axle stands with the engine running and wheels turning, with an insulated prod, touch the leg which has come adrift on to where it come away from and see if the speedo bursts into life.
Not having a basic board the same as I have here to compare yours with, makes things difficult as no circuit diagrams are available.
If that does not work, I think the best thing to do is to send me that board and I will see if i can get it to work in my test rig. But it all depends if you have had it working or not whilst you have had the car.

John.

Hello John,
Thanks for your input so far, when I first had the car speedo worked fine, but not for long as soon as it was laid up for the first winter it became hit and miss, lots in the history about speedo trouble.
I found the connector had been chopped off and soldered up ( in the rear wheel arch ) and also a I could just see another joint up near the bulkhead, so when the guts were out I chopped some shielded cable from the 25 loom and extended it from, the joint near the bulkhead and fitted a multispade connector onto the sensor lead, all soldered and heat shrinked.
We have about four inches of snow her at the mo', but as soon as I can I will refit the clockset temp and jack up the rear, and see what happens if I push the pin back in place, or solder it up while its off, either way will report back with outcome.
Again thanks a million.

when I first had the car speedo worked fine,

Thats a good thing Ryan, .... at least it shows that the mod was intended.

and see what happens if I push the pin back in place, or solder it up while its off, either way will report back with outcome.

I really would prefer it if you only just touched the "pin" back on and see what happens ..... as if the board had to come to me, I would have a start point of knowing that it worked before anything was done to the board, and I would like to see exactly how it came apart. However if it bursts into life, then clearly you can solder it. Here's hoping.
If possible, could you explain exactly where the pin has come apart .... I have zoomed in on your pics, but can't see where this detached pin is situated.

John

Will do, no soldering, may be a while 'till I can jack it up and try it, fair bit of snow here at the moment. Hence my soldering iron at the ready, was going to reverse the ECU bodge ( snow outside, no engines to build in conservatory, hence soldering on the dining room table......) at the same time.
The disconnected leg is the lower of the white rectangular component, it is soldered on the top and bottom, most L/H pins of a six pinned chip type thing ( looking at the board face on, connector at the top as it is fitted to the clockset ) then a resistor bridges the top pin of the white rectangular component to one pin of a three pinned component that is under the large blue capacitor.
Sorry if my terminology is a little scatty but electronics was after dinner at college, and we used to have four pints in the sports club bar next door.............................and I slept through transmission and switching in the evening..........., but that's why I am still an underground jointing monkey not a high flyer!

Right back to the story, engine in, non starter, at first I discovered I hadn't connected the earth strap.....perhaps there was nothing at first.........can't remember anyhow I checked everything and couldn't see anymore faux pas.
The only thing that didn't look too good was the heavy lead from the solenoid to the starter itself, and on removal discovered, probably not helped by wirebrushing and cleaning and painting, the lead had quite a number of strands broken and not making contact with the eyelet.
I stripped the starter down and used some strands stripped from some heavy industrial welder cable to make a new lead and soldered it on the starter end and a new eyelet on the solenoid.
Refitted the car spun but before it fired up I wanted to make sure I had oil pressure, except I didn't, I had the coupling off at the turbo. This was both to prime the turbo and make sure I had oil pressure. Stupid boy.....plugs out, but everything happens for a reason and if it had fired up that first time I would have forgotten about getting pressure first, at least these little teething troubles had given me time to think and to calm my excitement of hearing it run.
In the end I had a few moments when I worried 'cos I had to prime it a fair bit ( oil filter off, pressure switch off etc) and then of course the almighty gushing wave of oil all over the turbo, dripping down the manifolds....oh what fun!
Plugs back in, heart pounding like a sailor on shore leave, flick of the starter and away she goes fair bit of smoke from build up lube .......bit of lip biting .......staring ..........blipping of throttle .......it'll stop smoking soon.......should stop smoking soon..........very soon ...........feckin' 'ell.......wish it'd stop smoking......thank the baby Jesus and Virgin Mary its cleared......turn it off thank f**k !

Well done Ryan. Keep up the good work, it's a top thread!

OK Ryan ..... a couple of little jobs for you whilst the Instrument cluster is removed with, hopefully, the Alp in the garage and in the relative warmth.
You may recall my PM, reference checking the Fuel Sensor out of the tank, well, having tested that, and the sensor back in place, it would be worth checking the resistance at the sensor with whatever fuel quantity you have in the tank .... it should be between the values I gave you. Now you can check if you have continuity from the computer plug, through the sensor and back, which should give you the same reading +/- an ohm or so.
Now here comes the difficult bit for me ..... I have to explain what two pins of the connector are the ones to do the check on.
Looking at the pin view, hold the connector in the portrait position, now orientate it to have the top two row of with 3 pins each, the next row below having two pins with a blank in the middle, finally you should have 3 pins in the bottom row.
The two going to the fuel sensor are, the middle pin of the top row, and the middle pin of the second row.
Having achieved that, you might want to check the continuity through the speed sensor from the large connector (LHS). These pins are easier to locate.Peel back a bit if spiral wrap to find the only screened cable, (the screen and the two conductors should all be on the same row in the connector). Please use only a digital meter for this test. This firstly might be worth checking. Each conductor to the screen ..... that should show open circuit on each. Now put the meter probes on the two conductors, and you should get continuity through the sensor, however I do not know what reading you should get, but as long as you get a resistive reading rather than a short circuit, then I think it is safe to assume you are reading the sensor.If you do get around to this, please let me know what resistance you get for future reference.
Now ... that should keep you busy for a half hour or so,
Let me know if I have not explained myself enough.

Happy checking

John

Firstly, thanks Darren for the thumbs up, I hope it is of interest to the majority of Gta owners and it is nice to get positive comments.
Makes it worthwhile, if you're on your own with these cars it's uphill all the way !
John I'm afraid this year the Alp is in the cold, I usually cadge a spot in my neighbours Garage for the 750 and put the Alp in my own but sadly no offer this year, musical garages. The 750 would go downhill far quicker then the Gta if left outside. As the paintwork is not the best in places, I sometimes use a cover, just remove it and air the car as much as I can, but when it's painted I don't know what I'll do.
So covered in snow at the 'mo.
Had a look at the connectors though, and know which pins you mean so I'll get back to you with some numbers when I can but back to work tomorrow!

[Alpineandy]

Is this better?