E200JVV GTA TURBO Resto

ffs he's Derbyshire Andy so only one choice

[Alpineandy]

He said something about Yorkshire... As you know, it's all northern to me!





Hope you enjoy your New Year drinks as much as I'll enjoy my shandy!

I like all tarts, big ones, small ones, Manchester ones, Bakewell tarts, northern tarts, southern tarts even foreign tarts and I'm happy to be a cheap tart, for where would we be without cheap tarts.

............... you might want to check the continuity through the speed sensor from the large connector (LHS). These pins are easier to locate.Peel back a bit if spiral wrap to find the only screened cable, (the screen and the two conductors should all be on the same row in the connector). Please use only a digital meter for this test. This firstly might be worth checking. Each conductor to the screen ..... that should show open circuit on each. Now put the meter probes on the two conductors, and you should get continuity through the sensor, however I do not know what reading you should get, but as long as you get a resistive reading rather than a short circuit, then I think it is safe to assume you are reading the sensor.If you do get around to this, please let me know what resistance you get for future reference.

.........I have however had a look at the readings towards the speed sensor and it is indeed open circuit to the shield both legs, but a very low resistance across the two legs I had to go down to the 200 ohm scale on my little digi meter and it only read 02.7 ohms, bearing in mind it still reads 00.5 touching the leads together.

As I was none too sure what resistance to expect across a speed sensor, and not seeing any other member coming up with a figure, I decided to check the resistance of the sensor on my Atmo. I do expect it to be the same as a Turbo, and the reading I get is 1.6 ohms. now taking into consideration the resistance of the meter leads, the reading could be a little less.
The interesting thing about a reading as low as this is that any slight resistance in connectors is only going to add resistance to this circuit causing the signal to be reduced at the speedo board. This only goes to show how important it is to make sure the connectors .... especially on the turbo's wheel arch .... are clean and tight.
It might be worth ..... for those that are interested ..... making a note of this figure for future reference, remembering that a Digital Multimeter must be used so as not to damage the sensor.
Here is a pic of the sensor on test.
John

Was getting consistant readings of around 2.7/3 on all the sensors when I was faffing about last year .Both turbos ,two early plug design ,two later and didn't drop much at all through the connector blocks but then I had gone over them a few times as first port of call ...Even with a mullered sensor,body all mashed up ,I still got the same reading.

Get JohnC with his flash Fluke gear I've just been looking at getting a better meter but ended up sticking with an old cheapy and investing in a power probe instead as I'm mostly just checking sensors and dodgy wiring ..

Found my ' good ' meter out as I had used the mini cheapo meter to get the first readings, and got absolutely no sense out of it at all, turns out on closer inspection the ' good ' meter had dry joints on the terminals onto board, meaning readings were all other the shank.
So I've now fixed the meter in order to fix the speedo! Ended up 2 ohms, in the middle of Johns Fluke readings and the little cheapo meter.
Plan is to bind the loose connection with a little 0.5 copper wire, but not solder and whizz the car round the block, or I'll put it on stands,it's just the car is down my drive and space is a little cramped so a quick blast may be easier and will please my neighbour more than a V6 booming next to his dining room wall.
Back to time line and remember I had a GTA running with no smoke, sounding well but tickover was nearer 1500 than 900, bearing mind the various things that were wrong with car previously this didn't surprise me.
There is no adjustment tickover wise so the only thing I could think to try was the co pot, and sure enough a quick fiddle got it down to about 1000, but clearly something else was amiss.
The most likely I thought was an air leak, a quick peak in the throttle body and that was shut, so it must be post throttle plate leak not a stuck butterfly.
There is only one other path for the intake, other than leaks that shouldn't be there, and that's the ISCV so I kinked the hose and sure enough it dropped and stalled. Proving all was well leak wise and the high idle was ISCV related.
Long story shortened, after trying another ISCV from the 25 lump and much carb cleaner down both, I bit the bullet and stripped the valve down and despite various solvents down it was seized solid. It only came unstuck when totally stripped down.
Refitted and co pot adjusted so I got a nice smooth idle, that'll do for now didn't bother with the gas analyser, the fuel pump sounded none too clever anyway, first a little drive up the road, ( Top tip when test driving an unknown car always head up hill if you can 'cos when it falters and dies you always roll home ) which ended in disaster when firstly it cut out apparently due to fuel starvation and then when I got it going again as I drove down said hill something fell off and rattled down the road behind me !
I should point out I may not have been entirely legally covered on this little foray, or I may have for the record your honour, so I didn't want to hang about.
I pulled up and got out of the car and noticed it was one of the front indicators laying in the road 50 metres back, not the one I was going to replace in time, with the crack but the new, undamaged one, Oh what joy !
Having retrieved the indicator and inspected its new more rounded appearance I hot footed it home and counted my blessings, it can always be worse.........rarely gets better.
Top tip when you have stripped a car, have a good look round things that have been off before driving it, because there's usually plenty of stuff you meant to get back to, but didn't like clipping the indicators in properly !

Get JohnC with his flash Fluke gear

Gee .... Thanks for that Lee.
Seriously though, the only reason I used the Fluke was to get as accurate as possible reading across the ACTUAL sensor for future reference. If the reading is taken at the Instrument clusters big connector on its LHS, or the connector on the speedo board, I would expect it to be a little higher due to the various connectors that the signal has to pass through.
The Fluke is a 4.5 digit calibrated meter, so the reading should be spot on, and can display readings of up to 3 places of decimal.
As my reading is a little lower than Lee's and Ryans, ... just wondering if the later sensors (1990<) had a slightly lower resistance for some reason or another ???????
The trouble with sensors being such low resistance, even a slight extra resistance of say, half an ohm can make a significant difference to the signal before it reaches the speedo board.
By way of meters, this is the type that I use 99.9% of the time on any car (and home use as well), it is accurate enough and is very robust and not the end of the world to buy. It is in fact slightly better than mine having a back light and continuity bleep, very useful when checking wiring .... you don.t have to be looking at the display.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/DIGIFLEX-Testin ... er+digital

SPEEDO UPDATE !
Temp refitted clockset, and bound the loose connection together as I would rather drive the car up the road than roll about in the cold jacking etc, guess what.................feck all, which begs the question why does the mod exist at all?
Unless, and I suspect will be the outcome I have multiple faults. The only positive thing is as I was driving I banged on the top of the actual speedo part of the clocks ( I have done this before, but on the surround and got a slight quiver*) but managed with constant tapping to get about 5mph out of them .........any thoughts?
Where from here O wise one ( John C, Clee, anyone..?)
*from the needle not me ................. although you do forget how well a turbo goes with super cool dense winter air Brrrrmmmmm,whoooooooosh,brrrrrrrrmmmmmm...............

I've got a couple of used units ,hardwired etc you can use for test purposes if you want to pop down at some point .Need to get back to work ,so will be in tomorrow .....stir crazy now

On mine, if the speedo goes off, switching the back window heater on and off appears to bring it back most of the time.

Last time I drove it, the speedo had started working almost all the time after I dropped the motor, so maybe a connection got made tighter or cleaned somehow, or maybe coincidence.
Annoyingly, it has to work for it's MOT test over here, so hope it stays that way.
Although on the plus side, we are only tested every 2 years, so as long as it works for the right 5 minutes every 2 years, I can live without it..............

SPEEDO UPDATE !
Temp refitted clockset, and bound the loose connection together as I would rather drive the car up the road than roll about in the cold jacking etc, guess what.................feck all, which begs the question why does the mod exist at all?
Unless, and I suspect will be the outcome I have multiple faults. The only positive thing is as I was driving I banged on the top of the actual speedo part of the clocks ( I have done this before, but on the surround and got a slight quiver*) but managed with constant tapping to get about 5mph out of them .........any thoughts?
Where from here O wise one ( John C, Clee, anyone..?)
*from the needle not me ................. although you do forget how well a turbo goes with super cool dense winter air Brrrrmmmmm,whoooooooosh,brrrrrrrrmmmmmm...............

Lee I'll be in touch, Bob car was Frankin' Stein Styli ..........no surround so no switches although I have tried it before, no change............

Just spent an hour winding up this story to date, phone rang and it must of logged me off cos when I went to submit it I lost the feckin lot!...............

[BIG_MVS]

Always CTRL C, CTRL C all your writing before submitting or go off to answer the phone/door. Another obvious and unhelpful after the event top tip from my goodself.

I wonder if there is some kind of Draft facility that can be built into the forum which kicks in over a certain amount of words. One for Vince that?

Thanks Martin, I'll do it in chunks anyway, most of the meat and potatoes are gone on this story, pointless chasing a few peas round the plate so I'll bring it up to date sharpish,
Fuel starvation was traced to am in-op front pump and no amount of tapping and fiddling would bring it back to life so I fitted Facet lifter pump rated at about 120 litres per hour I think and it seems to be up to the job, although a little noisy ....phut,phut,phut...
It also needed to be mounted at 45 deg according to the instructions, so in the end it was a little tight but I mounted it on some rubber bobbins on an ally plate to isolate the vibes

Next up wheels refurbed by Metal Magic in Barnsley £45 each inc fitting the new Toyos, although it seems not to be as stable at speed as before, could be too much toe in at rear as it feels nervous, too eager to change direction near 100ish
It wasn't worth the hassle of blasting the wheels and painting myself by the time I've bought lacquer and had the tyres off and on then balanced, although I have found a place that can repair virtually anything if needed.
Insured by Lancaster for £100 fully comp agreed value and MOT'd June '14, straight through. And after the ECU bodge removed runs a treat. Right post this before I lose it..............nearly up to date!

Mirrors were both broke and cable tied to their mounts, and one had originally had plastic 'Ears' whilst the other had a 'U' shaped bracket screwed into the mirror body.
I filled both bodies with resin and chopped strand and drilled through from the mirror side,then used two stainless dome heads, tapping the u shaped bracket/swivel ( I had make one for one side as this had the plastic 'ears' )


Next up door opening solenoids, fleabay sourced some 5 kilo rated units for about 15-20 a pair and an extra hole in the bracket and some spade connectors to replace the bullets meant I didn't need to mess with the loom just plug and go !