Yes, Norway !

I am in the middle of replacing that pipe too, £100 from Simon autos,

Good move Filippo ....... glad to see you retaining the original cooling to the turbo bearing housing.
Just remember to fully clean the coolant pipes to and from the Turbo and its bearing housing before reassembly and refill coolant with Type D, to keep all the coolant circuit clean and free flowing.

John

.Good to know that Simon Auto has them tho, I might give him a shout.

Bob ...... Buy yourself a Christmas Present whilst stocks last ... you never know when they may become unavailable.
Don't run the risk of bearing failure in your turbo .... it could cost you more in the long run.
Happy Christmas

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I guess if it hadn't got the chop it would have been worth simply re-brazing; SA units are new copies like the main water pipes don't think there is any NOS left. Here's one I re-brazed, heads were already offski... at least you can see where it fits...

YUK ,You wanna get in there with some marigolds ya messy pup

.
..

On the point of is it needed, well Darren's car is non-water cooled, and probably in more regular use than anybody on here, clocking up something like 250k miles... yep you don't want to be Alpine-meanies and put lawn mower oil in coz it's cheap cheap... don't laugh, there's a few (more than a few I might add) out there trying to do projects as scrap yard challenges, all in for a fiver gov... ... but modern synthetics with the much higher degradation temps were not available then (when designed and built) as they are now, so much much less of a problem and likely now a non-issue. Until very recently the vast majority of aftermarket performance turbos were oil only, and still more options this way... It's not really black and white, and in fact if you are oil only, there is much less to go wrong (perished water pipes and breakdowns - been there on more than one occasion with peeps cars, it will happen) provided you use a good base stock synthetic and keep to frequent changes.

l Darren's car is non-water cooled, and probably in more regular use than anybody on here, clocking up something like 250k miles...

Well to be 100% correct Martin, yep it did get more regular use but not at the mo. Still not pressed back into daily service yet, but hopefully it will again.

And yes mileage was certainly 220+K on the original lump (depends on the lost mileage before JohnC worked his magic on the speedo), however the turbos (plural as the original had been swapped out with PeterG's old one at maybe 160K+) were at that stage water cooled. It's only been in the move to non-standard versions that it's now oil cooled only, but keeping in mind that the pre-86 cars were oil cooled I doubt there's too much in it as you say.

I've still got part of the plumbing for the water circuit, but I'll probably try to take that off. I've not looked, but where does that come from and can you plug it low down on the engine so that the pipe can be removed and kept safe? One for Lee maybe?

.
Thanks for the correction, you did tell me and I had forgotten that it wasn't always oil only... remembered the hardware more clearly from swapping it over one night... anyway, back to Bob

Cheers,
Martin

Does anyone know what the threads are on the water inlet at the turbo ?

Been a while since I took it off, from what I can remember, I would guess at 1/2" NPT ? Something like that.

Unless my research is wrong, it's a Garrett T3, there are loads of aftermarket goodies available for them on Ebay, so then I'd just have to come up with a design to match

You're correct Garrett T3, but to echo what Martin just said you'll find a lot of the ebay replacements use the non water cooled core - hence why mine (and a lot of others) have reverted back to the earlier type of set-up. All roads lead to Rome and all that.

It got two diff threads .. in the main core is one but there is an adapter boss that screws into it .Prob converts from imp to metric .I will have one somewhere I can measure

It got two diff threads .. in the main core is one but there is an adapter boss that screws into it .Prob converts from imp to metric .I will have one somewhere I can measure

Cheers.

I've been looking at this sort of thing.............
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111084634642? ... EBIDX%3AIT

As I say, plenty time, I doubt I'll even get to the car before March of April, just exploring the options.

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Hi Bob,

The water inlet and outlet thread in the Garrett T3 CHRA cartridge is M16 x1.5mm ( I can't remember what the two short Renault adaptor stubs female thread is, sorry), the Chinese copies do not stick to this convention, but you can drill and tap to the larger size, as I have done recently. It's not the same as the kits you posted link, I have two of those kits here for a job.

Hope that helps.

Regards,
Martin

Mail sent to Simon Auto, so lets see if he can source all the parts I need.

If he can get them all, I'll replace them all, but if just one of them isn't available, then the whole set up is useless, so it'll be a redesign....

This may seem like an odd request, but the authorities are hung up on the GAZ on my car.
They want a report stating what effect the kit has had on alignment, ride height etc.

Obviously, I don't have that, and over here, it's £300 to get an alignment report & check done, not like your 30 quid at Kwik Fit..........

So, has anybody had such a report done on their GTA and have the possibility to post it up or DM it to me so that I can use the data ?
It's not clear exactly what they want, but I believe it's something like this below.

If not, I have the book with all the factory settings, I may just have to use some artistic licence, and employ my Excel skills...............

No luck with the GAZ, I can't get it approved with them on, they want SO much documentation, spring rates, bump/rebound etc, not only for each shock and spring, but also a report in relation to how it effects every parameter, the corner weights of the car, ride height, alignment etc.
Contacted GAZ, but they say they don't offer anything even close to that.
So, I need to stick the standard ones back on for the approval,then swap them back when I get the plates.

I'm also having to get documentation from Renault proving the car's power output since the import taxes are based on that, the dealer brochure apparently isn't enough.

PITA.

If only I'd known then what I knew now...................

Still tho, nicer weather just around the corner, so hopefully get some progress made in April, got a nice new ART exhaust coming, found a set of Brock wheels I may make a purchase of, then hopefully get a few months usage before it goes away for the winter.
Need to get some usage on it soon, I've only driven it twice since I got back to Norway last March !