E200JVV GTA TURBO Resto

Door rubbers are held at each end wiith a trap plate ,couple of small screws and then they slide out along the top edge and at 90 running down ,IE you feed both in at the top corner .Then at the corner once in there is an interlocking tang which is a botch to get back in .much fiddle and popping bac k into the rubbers runner guide at that point .
I'm sure a man of you capabilities will sort it though .
Rear glass trim ...all I know is it will be brittle as hell and wont want to come out .Not sure of any alternative trim .Tiger seal and a wet finger

..................there are so many, many retorts to that last line ......but I will resist..........
Here a few pics of the issues .........flakey, bubbly bonnet...............



Flakey mirrors..............



Blisters on top of doors............Lee these are the weather strips I am referring to ......



Poor repair near door striker......................



Had a couple of hours this morning and got the rubber strips from under the rear engine bay sides out, hot water and a gentle pull and twist, they appear to be trim taped to the lower inside of the glass , so I will probs have a rare old farce getting them back and looking any Robin.....

Also got one quarter glass lower strip out, no chance on the top, and the plastic trim that runs above the door, I'm trying the bits I'm not sure of first and leave the easy stuff that I have had off before like the rear lights and bumpers 'til it's due to go.
Wipers and the scuttle trim surprised me and came off easy, although I had been spraying WD40 under the little M4 allens for a year or two, plenty gunge under it though..........................



Got man flu though so a couple of hours and I'm finished................

Feckin' sleeting now......sick of this winter....proper fed up

This car really does keep on giving..............
Continued the strip out for paint today and whilst removing the N/S door mirror noticed something not quite right with the lower hinge, it was loose,.... moving around, not much but you could see where the door lower skin had started to rub the top of the sill just inside the door shut below the door post.
Great, just what I needed as the low loader is booked for this coming Saturday to take it to my mates paintshop.
So door off, door card off and have a look ...........sure enough the lower hinge has cracked its location on the inner and is flexing about, probably caused by the rotten door post swelling and forcing the door ever tighter when closed.
The bolts took some working back and forth to get them out but in the end I managed and now see the reason why it started to give way.
The metal hinge is bolted through the GRP inner with a plate on the inside, and in my mind it ain't man enough, the load is not spread anywhere near far enough, so when it's put under strain it starts to crack, hey presto wobbly doors.
What was needed was the largest 2mm thick plate I could accommodate bolted through and bonded with two pack onto the door inner,


I bent a right angle lip to butt up as far as the plate could go and made the holes a bit bigger so when it gets bonded and bolted I can push it up tight into the edge where the hinges bolt.

I have still have to bolt and bond it as I have run out of two pack adhesive, it has now come but I am going to take my time as the heat is off, but it had me worried !

AC/DC.

That is all.

AC/DC

That is enough.

If anyone attempts this repair, take note of the curing time on the adhesive if you are using something you're not familiar with, as I just noticed as I placed the plate inside the door the factor had supplied 1min 30 sec adhesive, one aborted attempt and one successful attempt without gloves on and now I have one black hand................
But a solid door hinge, also the right angle was a masterstroke as it makes the plate rigid as there is very little at the bottom to bond to, i.e under the hinge to spread the load.
Car still not gone as better paying work has pushed in front.........Quel surprise!

Tip duly noted.

Got a bit of a wobbly driver's door myself, not had the guts to look at it yet, but I can't procrastinate about it forever............

If anyone attempts this repair, take note of the curing time on the adhesive if you are using something you're not familiar with, as I just noticed as I placed the plate inside the door the factor had supplied 1min 30 sec adhesive, one aborted attempt and one successful attempt without gloves on and now I have one black hand................
But a solid door hinge, also the right angle was a masterstroke as it makes the plate rigid as there is very little at the bottom to bond to, i.e under the hinge to spread the load.
Car still not gone as better paying work has pushed in front.........Quel surprise!

Bob, if it's just the bottom hinge I would get to it sharpish, If you let it get too bad you'll loose the location and it'll ten times as bad to rectify.
Bottom is easy to strengthen, the top looks much harder, possibly a no go as an invisible repair done from the inside as there feels to be flutes etc not a flat panel to bond to. You can only go so far with a flat plate on the bottom as there is a raised bit three to four inches above the lower hinge towards the check strap.
I had intended to make a record of the dimensions of the plate I had made but forgot, I would then would have been able to make more or let people know what to make, never mind.
Another tip is to use longer bolts than original ( 50mmish max as you're close to the skin on the bottom bolt) and take 5-10 mm off the threads of at the start, this will help you get them started as you're working with your hand through the speaker hole with the bolts coming through towards you and when you've got adhesive on it can be a bit of a faff.
There's no need to be cutting squares in the door skins as we've seen before ( bottom hinge anyway), but the earlier you catch it, the easier time you'll have, in fact if you've got time on your hands I think its worthwhile doing anyway.
There is also just enough room to get some nuts in on the other side of the hinge to add some more thread so you can proper wind it in, always do it with the door off and give the bolts into the door post a good plus gas soaking well before and keep trying the bolts from time to time, it's a straightforward job if you take your time and get all the bolts out without snapping any, busted bolts and you're into a farce !
If this doesn't make sense to anyone I am more than happy to answer any queries.
Hope this helps.

Rub A Dub Dub ......I'd rather be in the pub......Saturday stripped mirrors, bare metalled and etched the bases and flatted main bodies back..


Sunday flatting many layers of paint from front bumper......lots and lots of tart up blow overs....


Mick the paint man still at it when I left tonight at 9:30, working 'til half ten tonight ! Blimey I might end up finishing this sooner rather than later.


Car is not that bad in truth, but its all getting flatted well back then high build primed, I went down to take the rear hatch off and door push buttons off, drivers door and bumper still to come off.

All high builded, guide coat on so it's all flat, flat, flat from now on....................................



I'm on mates rates so I think I have become a fill in job from now on so progress may be a little slower, though it'll do it no harm to sit for a while and sink anywhere if it's going to. Weather's crap anyway.

Think there'll be a bit of hoovering needed when it comes back.............

Will be worth the wait I'm sure

Been discussing the colour with Mick, and I it was always my intention to keep it original, but the question of how original has now arisen.
I do want it pearl white, however I don't like white-white, pearl or otherwise, and in the same breath didn't like the yellowy ( in my eyes, bearing in mind the poor state/multiple different shades there was on the car) pearl it was wearing...........well I need to make a decision, as tomorrow it is getting demasked and cleaned up, now it is all flatted back and will be properly bagged up ready for painting next week.
We found some Renault paint chips showing the original 168 pearl, but also 015, which according to the GTA/A610 register link BigM posted on the GTA production thread, was a later colour for the GTA and looks less yellowy, so originalish.
I'm not anal as far as originality is concerned, I just want it pearl white but not like a 40 a day woodbine pearl white?
I liked the look of the Turbo 2 that Andy the painter did for Mr Phildini, perhaps I should message them?
Any thoughts or input please ......other than pearl white is sh*te

Only you know what you like so that's my input ,hope it helps .

Smokey and the Bandit tribute............black with a gold Phoenix on the bonnet...........' Eastbound and down, loaded and truckin' we gonna do what they say can't be done, we gotta long way to go...................'

I can drive any forking thing