First100 miles:beginning of the end or end of the beginning?

Nah ...it aint a 610 ...but two large rust hole next to the rack brackets .....shipping nextdoor to the Weldabeast early next week

Well, I'll take a small victory today whilst contemplating the water pipe problems!

Whilst it's up on stands, thought I'd tackle some of the little jobs as time allows. Today, managed to get the passenger side electric window back to life. The worm drive was completely dry inside and stuck solid. One I separated this from the motor and soaked in a mixture of wd40 and silicon lubricant, it came back to life. Bit fiddly getting it all back together mind..... I suppose, like anything else, it will be easy next time!

Will take the opportunity whilst the door is apart to try and repair the snapped mirror too. The casing has snapped at the join to the spring mechanism. Anyone had any luck repairing such a break?

Have you got a pic of the mirror where it's broken? I think I know what you mean....

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1435174002.872554.jpg

think that picture sums it up quite well... was naughty and went through a car wash a few weeks ago..... only then did I remember what the previous owner had done to the n/s mirror...... he'd accidentally fallen and grabbed hold and this was the result. Surprisingly, in normal use, just the clip part of the bracket seems to hold the mirror ok.... not sure I'd take it to track like that though!

Have the mirror off the car at the moment but not sure that looks like the sort of plastic that will glue / bond back together. Also can't figure out how to dismantle the "springy thing" on the backside of the mount any further? I can feel the onset of a professional grade cable tie bodge

Page 5 guv.................my resto make a u shaped bracket fill mirror body with glass and resin drill through from mirror end...ta dah..
Or I can do it for you .......a thousand pounds .............

Actually looking at it you might be able to two pack it back together, but use some pro stuff, from bodyshop supplier such as 3M or UPOL stronghold 901 not aralshite. It's dear but mega strong,but the guns £20 and you only get two nozzles with a £15 pound kit.
There is two pointed bit thingies either end of a strong spring you need to compress and that fingered bit will separate from the ally base, two pack glue its asp off then sproyung* it back on.

* technical term meaning to bung a springy thing back together with a bit of effort.

Page 5 guv.................my resto make a u shaped bracket fill mirror body with glass and resin drill through from mirror end...ta dah..
Or I can do it for you .......a thousand pounds .............

hmmmm, a thousand pounds...... would you take euros..... or even Drachmas?

One of mine is gone in the same area.

It basically has two self-tapers screwed into main section where your plastic studs have snapped. Hard to describe, if I get a chance and take it off then I'll post a pic. Basically it means the whole thing is one unit with the actual metal mount but it's no issue really - still mounts to the car in the same way and is totally invisible otherwise.

I think you've got enough material there to bond it all up though and yep I'd probably opt for some extra fibre-glass reinforcement around the area. It doesn't have to be pretty when it's all hidden.

I would be looking at removing the part with the springy bit, possibly by using long nosed pliers into the spring ... squeezing and levering out ... if not the pliers then levering it out by any other means. To do the next bit, you will have to remove the spring and its two end pins. Offer the removed bit to the mirror body and try replacing the self tappers with longer ones, or tapping a metric thread right through and if possible, locked off with a nut inside the mirror body .... do the same with the other self tapper and reassemble with what ever two pot adhesive you choose .... I would be quite happy with Araldite myself ..... I would also smear the threads of the longer self tappers / metric bolt with the adhesive, reassemble, and nobody would ever know.
From the pic and my memory, I don't know if this is feasible, but I would start off along those lines.
Good Luck

PS. If you are having really big problems removing the Springy bit from the molding up against the window, the easy way would be to remove that molding from the glass by undoing the screw inside the window of the plastic triangular cover, unplug the connector and the heater wires, get some long nosed pliers and remove the round castellated "nut", then you will be able to get behind the two pins holding the broken bit, and with a small screwdriver behind the pin ends, lever off the fitting.
Also by doing it this way, there will be less risk of breaking the glass when clipping the mirror back into its base where you have to use quite a bit of force. Having reassembled the whole mirror, refit back on to the glass.

I would be looking at removing the part with the springy bit, possibly by using long nosed pliers into the spring ... squeezing and levering out ... if not the pliers then levering it out by any other means. To do the next bit, you will have to remove the spring and its two end pins. Offer the removed bit to the mirror body and try replacing the self tappers with longer ones, or tapping a metric thread right through and if possible, locked off with a nut inside the mirror body .... do the same with the other self tapper and reassemble with what ever two pot adhesive you choose .... I would be quite happy with Araldite myself ..... I would also smear the threads of the longer self tappers / metric bolt with the adhesive, reassemble, and nobody would ever know.
From the pic and my memory, I don't know if this is feasible, but I would start off along those lines.
Good Luck

Thanks John, certainly a much more professional approach than I had first thought of!

Thanks John, certainly a much more professional approach than I had first thought of!

See the edited version of my original post for added info.

Just be very careful either working with it on the car, or taking it off, as the glass can easily break.

PS. If you are having really big problems removing the Springy bit from the molding up against the window, the easy way would be to remove that molding from the glass by undoing the screw inside the window of the plastic triangular cover, unplug the connector and the heater wires, get some long nosed pliers and remove the round castellated "nut", then you will be able to get behind the two pins holding the broken bit, and with a small screwdriver behind the pin ends, lever off the fitting.
Also by doing it this way, there will be less risk of breaking the glass when clipping the mirror back into its base where you have to use quite a bit of force. Having reassembled the whole mirror, refit back on to the glass.

Thanks John. I actually already removed the mirror bracket from the window so have access to the rear of the bracket. By the way, is there a purpose built tool for removing castellated nuts like that? I used a slot head screw driver and gentle taps of a hammer!!

Just be very careful either working with it on the car, or taking it off, as the glass can easily break.

Yes, I think I got lucky with removal! Especially as I subsequently read Big M's "Read A610" thread..... now I'm nervous about the refitting.

By the way, is there a purpose built tool for removing castellated nuts like that?

I assume you mean the big nut that sits on the plate inside the car holding the assembly on? I use radio removal tools - stick a prong in two of the slots and twist. Voila.



I'm sure there's a specific tool, but seems to work for me.

By the way, is there a purpose built tool for removing castellated nuts like that?

I suppose there could well be, but I use long nosed pliers .... not by gripping the nut, but locating the two long noses into the castellated slots at 180 degrees from each other and just rotating the pliers in the same way as removing the back of a watch with the noses of pliers into the slots around the back cover ..... I hope this makes sense .... if it doesn't, I will take a pic and post it up.

.... now I'm nervous about the refitting.

You should not have any problem there as all the fitting will have been done .... Just as an aside, when refitting the mirror to its base, I grip the threaded "tube" in a workmate with the base seated on the workmate surfaces, and you can press as hard as you like to get the spring loaded pins to snap into position having located the front clip of the mirror into is seat. And if you use my long nosed pliers method to screw up the castellated nut, there is no real pressure to break the glass .... just don't over tighten ....... just tight enough so it wont move.

[stephendell]

Alternatively buy a brand new mirror with all new seals motor and glass for £50 or just the shell for £30. Cheaper than the glue and the effort.