Sump Drain Plug and low oil pressure

[The Saint]

Hi All,
I was just wondering, if any of you have had issues removing the oil drain plug from the sum pan?
Last time I gave the GTA an oil change, I found it difficult to unscrew the plug, and yesterday I could not budge the plug at all!!
As the sum pan is alloy, I dare not give it too much force, but has anyone got a method of releasing the plug??
Last time I change the oil, I even put a little copper slip on it, to aid the release, but that don't seem to have helped me...
So any tips to taking this plug out would help, and yes there is a copper washer in there too!!
Cheers Vince..

Never had an issue with the sump plug,gearbox plugs,yes.
All I can suggest is get some heat on it ,it's a coarse thread so should open up.

[BIG_MVS]

I was going to say I have always been told to remove the oil after a run/the engine is hot. This should ease the removal of the sump plug as well?

...... I even put a little copper slip on it, to aid the release,

Yes ..... which also aids over-tightening of the plug.
I would not use copper slip on bungs or plugs ...... in the case of the sump plug, make sure it is washed off in petrol as there is always a bit of oil in the thread already, and using a round hollow copper sump washer, once it is flattened, it will act similar to a lock washer, so once it is crushed, just a tweak more is all that is required.
You could see if you could get a 3/8ths ratchet wrench to locate in the plug. It gets your key handle closer to the plug and gives you better leverage than a right-angled Allen Key type lever which is what I assume you are using.
It all depends if there is enough room to get a ratchet engaged in the plug.

[The Saint]

Thanks for the replys,
I gave up and just sucked the oil out the dip stick tube with a vacuum pump and a very thin pipe, like I do on my Smart Roadster. Took ages but got the oil out. I unscrewed the 22 bolts that hold the pan on to the base of the engine, to try and remove the pan to loosen the bolt for future changes, but guess what.... yep that was also siezed on, and I did not want to break anything, so gave up on that too..
But things seemed to have got worse now... I changed the filter and oil, but now I have NO oil pressure?? The gauge don't move and there was no oil warning light??? Even with the engine off and Ignition switched on?? So I took a long wire and linked it to the oil sender, then sat in the car and earthed the wire to the key casing, and the gauge shot off the scale, so that workes! Next I unpluged the oil low warning light connection, and found it was only holding there with the insulation, It was not connected, so I sorted out a new connection and sure enough the light now works!! I started the car and the light remained on!! and the gauge still shows no pressure So I quickly shut off the engine.
Other strange thing here.. the third gauge, to show you the oil level, this started to work?? Its never moved before?? Also I now have an ABS warning light?? So I have definatly disturbed something and got things working....
Don't you just love these cars... You just get to think you have everything running right, and they surprise you with a kick in the nuts...

I now need to buy an oil pressure test gauge and see exactly whats going on

Got to be an electrical issue .No reason why you should suddenly lose all pressure standing still................ If you want to pop over and borrow my gauge just shout,not something I'd want to post .Does the pressure gauge move slightly when you switch ignition ? It should just move a tad .

I started the car and the light remained on!! and the gauge still shows no pressure So I quickly shut off the engine.

Vince ..... a couple of things here ...... How long did you leave the engine running ? ........ because having changed the filter, it does take quite few seconds for the new oil to be picked up and fill the filter before the pressure can build up to firstly shut the warning light off, and start the needle moving up the pressure scale. I am sure you knew that already but it is just a thought.
If you have a meter, the other thing you can do is effectively use the meter on the "Ohms" range to be your pressure gauge by putting Black lead to earth, and the Red lead to the senders wire connection ...... unless it is an Auto Ranging meter, set the range so you get an actual reading, preferably get someone else to start the engine then after a few seconds, the reading should fall as the pressure builds up and the resistance drops. The readings are meaningless but it will show that there is or is not pressure. If the resistance does not move ..... it is possible there is no oil pressure ...... but as Lee says, if it worked before, there is no reason that the pressure should die just by doing an oil change.

..... Other strange thing here.. the third gauge, to show you the oil level, this started to work?? Its never moved before??

Something I have noticed with my gauge, the oil level has to be right on the max mark on the dipstick for it to read, and a midge over to go to the top of the scale. As soon as the level drops a bit you get little or no reading.

Don't panic Vince. Chances are you've disturbed a wire on the sender or it's just sticking.

Similar thread here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7187

[The Saint]

Thanks again all..
I know it sounds wierd, that the pressure is not there after an oil change, but the reason why I changed the oil in the first place, was that I had been driving the car on the motorway on Saturday, and when I came off, and on to the "A" roads, I noticed that the oil gauge was low on tick over. Guessing that the oil was hot and I had not changed it in nearly a year ( But I had not done more than two thousand miles since last change ) I thought I may as well change it and give the car a service. When I was at GoodWood I had also noticed the oil gauge dropping on tick over... So there maybe a connection with something failing and its just given up??? Not sure but Lee, I will try and pop up at weekend and loan your gauge if thats ok?? As I think thats the only sure way of knowing.
Yes Lee the gauge does rise just a tad when I switch on... and John, I pre-filled the filter before I fitted it... just something I have always done.
Thanks for that link Darren... I will get my trusty old "AVO8" out and measure the sender unit as well.. but as the low pressure warning light switch is not going out, I have a feeling that that is not going to be the cause... but worth a check.

[The Saint]

Ok update...

Today I eventually got the oil gauge to read..... even if it was just out of the red and low!!! but a quick rev, and the pressure increases... so I have oil pressure, guessing the sender is U/S. As Lee said, it must be an electrical issue. Strange thing was when the oil gauge worked, the low warning light stopped, as well as the oil level switch.??? ( Don't you just love these cars!! )
Anyway I started messing about and decided to earth the low oil warning switch. This made the warning light work, as well as the oil level. ( Getting somewhere I thought!! ) so while it was earthed, I started the engine. The oil pressure gauge still worked but still low and just out of the red area. Strange thing was the oil level meter remained on! and I was able to watch the oil level dropping, as the engine took the oil up into the engine. So the low oil pressure light switch controls the oil level gauge. This is why it stops reading when the engine starts, well it would be of no use when driving, and the oil sloshing about in the sump pan...
Anyway I am rabbiting but wanted to share this find with those that may find it of some use. So now I am on the hunt for a replacement low oil warning switch AND the oil pressure sender. I seen in the other thread that there is an extension part to these two items...BUT looking at what I have on my car I was wondering if I have something different?? It looks like someone has done a modification??? take a look and let me know what you think?? Can I purchase the switch and sender and screw them into this part??? and if anyone has part numbers or advise, I would appreciate it!!
Cheers Vince..

Oil sensors.jpg

SensorAdaptor.jpg

What you think?? are these two parts just screwed into this?? so I can buy just a "Normal" sensor without the need for that extension??

That is the correct setup for seperate sensor versions .I will have a look in the parts bin .

I had all sorts of fun when I rebuilt my engine, I have a working gauge, but then the low pressure light works one time in a hundred.........its on the snagging list...........anyhows this is on my watch list, I haven't got round to ordering one but I looked into it months back and i'm sure its the same as my set up that is already on the car.
Combined warning sender and gauge sender........can't be far off ?


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120935059724? ... EBIDX%3AIT

So now I am on the hunt for a replacement low oil warning switch AND the oil pressure sender. I seen in the other thread that there is an extension part to these two items...BUT looking at what I have on my car I was wondering if I have something different?? It looks like someone has done a modification??? take a look and let me know what you think?? Can I purchase the switch and sender and screw them into this part??? and if anyone has part numbers or advise,

What you think?? are these two parts just screwed into this?? so I can buy just a "Normal" sensor without the need for that extension??

An exploded diagram is always a help in finding out how things are put together.
It also appears that Mecaparts have both the items in stock, ..... unlike sometime ago when they only had the combined unit available.

[The Saint]

Thanks for the John...
I have been on the mecapart site, but for the life of me I cannot understand it How the heck do you order from it??


After an overnight soak in WD40, I managed to remove the sensors. As you can see in the photo the pressure sensor has 33742 stamped on it?? just worth a mention..

sensor33742.jpg

breakdown.jpg

I have been on the mecapart site, but for the life of me I cannot understand it How the heck do you order from it??

Vince .... I don't know how far you got, but I have just had a quick check, and once you have changed "Qte" to one for each of your components, click the basket to the right, then you should see a list of parts you have ordered, then click "Je passe commande", and that should take you to a page where you can fill in your Billing Address, and a few other boxes to suite ....... I have not gone any further, but suggest you fill in the necessary and see where that takes you.
Before you go to that page, just check the quantities in the List of Parts page, as if you have been trying a couple of times, the quantities seem to go up each time.
BTW ... that number I don't think means anything important as the Renault Pt No. is 60 00 007 768, so where that other number comes from is anyone's guess.
Second BTW ....... Did you measure the resistance of the sensor with engine off ..... or as it is now dismantled ?