Need technical help - Engine rebuild questions

I knew I had posted some pictures before





Once it was dropped out, very easy to work on.......it was a clutch this time...... May 2006.

[johnb]

OK on to next steps, is it possible to attach the engine to the gearbox and install it as a power pack into the car? If possible, is it easy or is it better to put the gear box in first and then install the engine? What is the standard practice to reinstall the engine/gearbox? I am not too excited about trying to wrestle the engine onto the end of the trans.

I've just had a look at the Alpine MDR for the A310V6 and it does say the engine/gearbox assembly can be removed from above.
In your 2013 thread, mentioned above, is a photo of the engine being lifted out by crane and with the hatch removed. If the hatch is still off the car it's worth a try putting it back as an assembly.

The MDR states:-
'Lift all in a horizontal plane to clear the engine mounts.
Simultaneously, lift and tilt the powertrain and remove engine from the compartment.'

Thanks for the responses. The GTA looks to have benefited from lessons learned on the 310. I looks quite a bit easier.

@derrenbiggs, I removed it engine first with a hoist


and gearbox second


I am sure as you know getting them out is one thing and back in is another. It is all about threading the needle of the input shaft to the clutch disk. The splines may be pretty forgiving in this configuration so maybe not a big concern but with finer pitch splines it is a bear to get good alignment and it always seems to take a few trys before the bits meet up.

The trans looks like this today and the engine will look similar so I want to make it as tidy as possible.


@ John, thanks that it exactly the input I am looking for. Much appreciated.

Brian

[johnb]

Looking good Brian.

Just a thought whilst the gearbox is still out of the car. Might be worth making sure the reverse switch is working correctly if you haven't already checked. I found out after the box was installed and the switch isn't the easiest thing to remove once the box is in the car.

That explains it Brian!

Sorry I can't give any guidance re the 310, but sterling work on the gearbox and engine, they're looking very good.

Well the rebuild is coming along. After weighing in all the input from everyone and the guy that I use to machine my stuff I opted to stack shims and use some Toyota black (FPIG) to seal it all up. My machinist was concerned about trying to get a finish cut of only 0.004" his recommendation was to shim it like was suggested by the folks here. So this is what is looks like at the moment:

I am at a bit of a standstill because I misplaced one of the cam retainer plates. I used it when I degreed the cam and put is somewhere "safe" anyway I have a new one coming to me from the Delorean guys.

So my latest question is how to torque the head. The manual instructs to torque the head then go through a heat cycle and retorque it but I recall someone (I think CLEE) stating they don't retorque it. So what do people do?

.

.
Brian, oh Brian, you disappoint me... all that chat, all those people, and you have just shimed it... boo hoo, I was looking forward to you machining it, holding the tolerance and parallelism... I wanted to see how you were going to jig it up, oh well, what can I say laugh... There I was thinking you were the ultimate perfectionist, and would never alow yourself to do it!! Hehehe....

Merry Christmas from across the pond

Cheers,
Martin

So was I Martin..........



http://www.incrediblethings.com/travel/ ... s-be-gone/

You guys are funny, yeah I caved in and am taking a leap of faith. Yes, yes all that chat led me to believe I was wanting to bring an atomic bomb to a knife fight. Pretty much most everyone said shim it with a few recommending using some form in place gasket material too. Ultimately it was my favorite machinist that said give it a go with stacked shims before skimming everything and potentially creating a problem with timing etc. after whacking 0.020" to 0.040" in total loss in the stack up.

We will see what happens. Before I put the pistons in I did fill the water jacket with water and let it sit a few hours to check for leaks. Yeah I am still uneasy but this engine has been around forever so I know I am not blazing new trails. If there is a problem after I put it back in the car I will take the engine out and then get crazy with the precisioness then.

Sometimes I have to take a step back and not over engineer things. Years ago I was sitting in my living room studying for a university exam and my wife came and jumped on a stationary bike that was in the corner. I watched for a minute and thought "how was she going to get the bike out of the room?" After coming up with several over complicated mental concepts she jumped off the bike, walked around to the back, lifted up the rear legs and rolled it away on the front wheel. I neglected to ask myself how it got in the room in the first place too. I tell my young engineers that story because sometimes you need to take a step back and look at the big picture.

I think this is one of those times to listen to the guys that have done this before and not try to reinvent the wheel. Hopefully I did it right.