I NEED WIRING HELP!!!!

I have been sorting the wiring for two weeks now and I am not confident the wiring is correct. I was repairing the wiring and found there were shorted wires so I am second guessing the wire was correct in the first place. I would like any help or recommendations on the best way to sort the wiring.



First I would like to ask if anyone has a clear wiring diagram (schematic) for a 1982 single coil car? I have the diagram from the Simon manual but the small print is very faint and difficult to read. I would also like comments on the following pictures to verify I have identified the wires correctly:





I would appreciate the help

Thanks
Brian

By the way my question pertains to a 1982 A310. Apologies I left that particular detail out.

[Alpineandy]

I'm not sure if this will help but Johnb put some links in this that may be useful for you ;
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=8148

[johnb]

I'm not sure if this will help but Johnb put some links in this that may be useful for you ;
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=8148

Thanks Andy.
The Guide de Reparation, on the FAR forum, has the wiring diagram on pages 440 & 441.

[johnb]

First I would like to ask if anyone has a clear wiring diagram (schematic) for a 1982 single coil car? I have the diagram from the Simon manual but the small print is very faint and difficult to read. I would also like comments on the following pictures to verify I have identified the wires correctly:

Wiring diagram sent separately.

You’ve probably sorted the wiring by now but here are my observations.

Photo 1 – Agreed, the 4.5 mm cable from the battery +ve to the starter +ve and then the second 4.5 mm cable to the alternator +ve.
On my car the red wire is from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid connection. This goes live when the ignition switch is in the start position .
The white wire with the bullet connector end, on my car goes to the +ve (Bat) connection on one of the coils. This goes live when the starter is operating and supplies 12V direct to the coil, bypassing the ballast resistor to aid starting. As soon as the starter disengages, the coil is only fed from the output from the ballast resistor at the reduced voltage.

Photo 2 – Agreed, the 4.5 mm cable comes from the starter +ve connection and the other 4.5 mm cable goes to the chassis earth. The red wire comes from the ignition switch via a fuse. On the 1982 wiring diagram the wire from the ignition switch is labelled 23 R6 67 at the switch and 23 R6 57 at the fuse. I think that the reference at the fuse end should be 23 R6 56, i.e leaving the switch 56 and not 57 which is the reversing light switch. On the wiring diagram for my car it is labelled 23 R6 56.

Photo 3 – Agreed about the two heavy black cables.
I presume that the red wire is the same as the one in photo 2.
The green wire goes to the temparature transmitter at the water pump.

Photo 4 – Can’t help with these earth cables. My car also had a heavy earth cable on the right hand side that wasn’t connected to anything when I bought the car. I never found a purpose for it.

Huge thanks to John for the information and schematic. Yes I have it figured and sorted now but really due to your help. Engine is in now and now attaching the rest of the bits today.


I think I am dragging my feet a bit just because I am a bit nervous about starting it up.

[johnb]

Engine is in now and now attaching the rest of the bits today.
I think I am dragging my feet a bit just because I am a bit nervous about starting it up.

Not long to go then before the first start.

I'm sure that you'll have checked everything, turned it over manually several times, set the timing, put the correct amount of oil in, will have coolant and fuel in when coolant and fuel lines are hooked up, checked for sparks at the plugs; then it should go. You just have to go for it.

Obviously there are many more things that need to be set correctly during the engine build but you'll know whether this has been done.

I may have mentioned this previously but something I added to my car that made initial starting and engine adjustments much easier was to add a remote start point in the engine bay. I attached a cable to the connection on the starter motor solenoid that goes live when the ignition switch is in the start position. This cable was run up the back wall of the engine bay, on the right hand side, and was attached to a connector block screwed to the back wall, near where your ECU is mounted. I then bought a remote start switch (with bulldog clip ends) and could then connect one side to battery +ve and the other side to the connector block. Squeezing the start switch, with the ignition switch in the run position, would then operate the starter.

Using the switch saved going backwards and forwards to the ignition key and allows you to watch what's happening in the engine bay when you are starting the engine.
Good luck.

Fire in the hole !!!! Just make sure you prime the oilpump very well.Syringe a good load in until it flows back out the filter port.Take the spark plugs out to crank prime before going for it also .

I will start another post on that one.