Spider R787AOW

Ah - that's where it is. Looking forward to the surgery and recuperation.

Any indications yet what the "starting" point is, yet?

Any indications yet what the "starting" point is, yet?

Yes - probably better than expected given the issues with the configuration and engine management but lots of room for improvement.

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Well the car is back in the UK and locked in my garage!

I won't bore anyone with the last 6 months which have been traumatic to say the least. However I think it is fair to say it will not be taking any more holidays in France again!!

The car has had most of the planned work completed but not without issues and some new ones being created whilst away but at least I have the car back and can now start enjoying it and sorting the issues myself (with your help!).

The upgrades were:

New ECU (Skynam Challenger 5)
Airbox and air intake to the existing throttle bodies
Brakes/Wheels/Tyres

Yes - I know that's not 6 months work but let's move on from that!

As of today it now has new wheels and tyres that actually fit and don't rub the arches. There are some as new Yokohama Advan AD08 245/45/17 tyres for sale on eBay is any is interested.

The uprated brakes are fine. The airbox and intake are functional. The ECU is also functional (but I cannot access yet) but the cranking/firing is not ideal.

The car has forged pistons so suspect it may have a higher compression. I am therefore looking to add a screened RPM sensor or high torque starter motor to see if that helps - it can't make it any worse and I added one to my Cobra and it really improved the cranking/firing on the big V8.

I see WOS performance (http://www.wosperformance.co.uk/product ... er-motors/) make some to fit Renault. Has anyone any experience of these or replaced their starter motor on their Spider.

Happy to consider any other recommendations.

I will add some photos and then hopefully we can work through the issues together.

Next we have to sort why the RPM gauge is not working and then an oil leak believed to be from the gearbox.

Small point but also need the rubbers for the boot stay as they are knackered beyond repair - any suggestions as to replacements. Can you still buy parts from the Renault dealership or will they give me a blank look when I mention Spider?

Where else are good places to buy consumable/replacement parts - UK only please!!

Thanks.

Well the car is back in the UK and locked in my garage!

David ..... Glad to hear you have got your Spider back home at last.

John

Well the car is back in the UK and locked in my garage!

David ..... Glad to hear you have got your Spider back home at last.

John

Thanks - saga not quite over as several issues which I am dealing with but the main one is the ECU has been locked which was specifically discussed at the start as I wanted the option to change and upgrade when and where I wanted.

Hopefully this will be resolved in a few weeks and then I can put the saga behind me and start enjoying the car although already lost 6 months of decent weather!

Next French induced problem to resolve.

Despite already having the rear suspension dropped the car was returned with 245/45/17 tyres on the rears which left no gap between the tyres and body and rubbed badly. I changed tyres and reduced down to 245/40/17 which I thought would give sufficient clearance but sadly not. Even the smaller tyres still rub on the rear bodywork under cornering and undulating roads. There feels like there is actually quite a bit of give in the rear suspension.

Now the rear anti roll bar was removed and replaced with a custom fabricated piece when the airbox was fitted so I am wondering if this is not up to to the task and/or the suspension needs refreshing/adjusting.

After.JPG

Clearly another issue that I was not expecting and now need to resolve. Any suggestion for shock refurbishments or geometry alignment in Yorkshire? Refurbishment could be my post as happy to remove and send them away.

Also you can see from the above picture the car has the race adjustable suspension - I may have a play myself but does anyone have the instructions on how to adjust before I start playing with the spanners as I want to raise a bit.

Thanks

raising is easy, release the lock nuts on the threaded section below the damper, then turn the section between the locknuts to extend the length of the link. Long time since I did it so cannot remember which way to turn and there are some left hand threads IIRC, Measure the current length before starting and play around, you can always re set to the original if it doesn't work out for you.
Might also want to check those dampers are pressurised. 200 psi (edit, cannot tell by the photo if they are Penske with separate reservoir or not)
race cars have inner arches cut away to stop rubbing.
so on a road car you will need a tyre/wheel combo some way small than the race sizes.

Had a look at the rear suspension and there is quite a lot of play when you just push and pull on the bodywork so maybe they do need a refurb or replacement. It's probably best checking before setting the ride height.

I believe they are the Trophy adjustable shocks with standard springs. Does anyone know where these can be serviced or a suitable replacement?

Photos below:

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Whilst thinking about the suspension I decided with wrap the exhaust header.

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I believe they are the Trophy adjustable shocks with standard springs. Does anyone know where these can be serviced or a suitable replacement?

These look like standard Bilstein's rather than trophy spec Penske dampers which have a remote reservoir. Bilstien in the UK do have a refurb service, Dave Masters is the man there to speak to. Not sure weather they will still do this one or not.
david.masters@kruppbilstein.co.uk

Bilstein UK
Unit 3
Swannington Road
Broughton Astley
Leicestershire
LE9 6TU
Day: 01455 283407
Fax: 01455 283301

If they are Penske then SPA in Cannock are the people to go to.

Thanks - email sent - will update. David already responded and yes they can still refurbish them for £80 each plus VAT so will get them removed and sent this week if I can find time.

Changed the quick release adapter today. Moved to a slim version so wheel fits better and no too close to my body.

New adapter on custom hub plate:

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Rear of steering wheel - had to shave a bit of metal work off both parts to fit against a flat hub but all works well:

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All fastened together:

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Had my last drive out for a little while. Then shock and springs removed and packed ready for sending for refurbishment. Whilst on ramp/stands I removed the old coolant bottle - it was weeping and replaced with a new Pro-Alloy tank - will upload photos when connected - the fittings I had were the wrong size.

Decided to finish the electric sockets in the car - 2 in the passenger footwell (one power and one USB) and 1 in the driver footwell (power).

Happy with the finished article - only the passenger side wired up and working at the moment. Drivers side will have the tyre pressure sensor display.

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I'm about to put power sockets in my Spider too. Have a set of three - USB, 12v & Battery Level indicator, plus two separate fused 12v->5v micro USB leads for dash-cam and phone charging. I'll post pictures when completed.

I'm about to put power sockets in my Spider too. Have a set of three - USB, 12v & Battery Level indicator, plus two separate fused 12v->5v micro USB leads for dash-cam and phone charging. I'll post pictures when completed.

Please do - I have already put a battery level and charge point here which is wired direct to the battery so I can leave on trickle charge.

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I'm about to put power sockets in my Spider too. Have a set of three - USB, 12v & Battery Level indicator, plus two separate fused 12v->5v micro USB leads for dash-cam and phone charging. I'll post pictures when completed.

Please do - I have already put a battery level and charge point here which is wired direct to the battery so I can leave on trickle charge.

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OK, now that's clever - I wouldn't have thought of that. Does the switch next to it allow you to turn off the meter & socket so as not to drain the battery?