Battery clamp

Update on non starting Alpine.
Checked fuses, all work. Checked electrics and the only rhings that don't work are the washers, wipers, windows and indicators but these are items that only usually work with the ignition switched on in most cars. Hazards work.
Dropped the stalk panel and traced cables to the LED and transponder receiver ( black, black w white trace in photo). Also a bunch of cables tied off. You can see these clearly in the photo.
So still thinking imobiliser but no further forward. Also took the side panel off the tunnel but I can't see anything there that shouldn't be. Can't imagine the whole dash was removed to fit it. Am I missing something? Any ideas welcomed.

unless there is someone on this forum that knows the ins and outs of this particular immobiliser, I think you are going to have to get some professional help with this one. I have tried to get some info on Google about the Vecta unit, but apart from "Remove it, and get a modern one" type comments, I can find nothing that will help.
Even finding the "Black box" with a load of wires coming from it to various connections in the loom is not likely to help unless you are equipped with a full 1989 electrical manual (which indecently has some glaring mistakes in it, meaning you have to use the 1990 manual for correctly numbering of units) and a knowledge of what you are doing, you could inadvertently put more faults on the system than there are at the moment.
In order to try and help, I have spent quite a bit of time pondering your problem, but without being there, I am afraid I can't help any further.
Sorry about that ........... here's hoping there is someone more knowledgeable than me on this one to help you.
John

Vecta were one of the higher end systems, but they all depended on how they were concealed and wired in.
I have no direct experience on these.

But the basic principle is all the same, they just interrupt the cars existing loom immobilizing that circuit........starter solenoid, fuel pump etc, doesn't matter how trick the box is, it's an add on......trace the transponder receiver unit to the main box and trace the wires out, they are all black, but you'll soon find where they go , a circuit will go in and out via the black wires, plus there will be an earth and perm +, the LED and transponder loom ( some of these are telecoms looking fixed length leads) just takes time.
Remove it all, battery back ups age and cause all sorts of problems on bike units........been there .....toll booth abroad ...throwing a wobbly....30 year old French electrics are fun enough without throwing in boxes of electronics soldered in by a plonker Rodney.

Physical deterrent rules.

Thanks for your efforts John.
I have a 1989 wiring manual. I've looked up some threads too and interestingly most seem to be fitted to Vaxhalls and Fords and as you say the concensus is to remove it! It would help if I knew where it was and what it looked like! Deep joy!!
Sounds like a job for an auto electrician. Not going to start fiddling in the dark!
Think Turbell points the way out of this mess! Going to be fun though!

It would help if I knew where it was and what it looked like! Deep joy!!

I would have thought that if you followed the wiring back from the LED, that should take you to the "Black box"......... in theory.

It would help if I knew where it was and what it looked like! Deep joy!!

I would have thought that if you followed the wiring back from the LED, that should take you to the "Black box"......... in theory.

Yes I agree. That's why it looks like a dash out job because as you know space is at a premium and you can't get a torch in anywhere let alone a hand!
Might take the radio out see if its behind there. Just a thought!

Take the side panel off the tunnel,either side will do and I bet it's hiding in there.

Well funny you should say that. I took the drivers side off yesterday because I thought it a reasonable bet but because I don't really know what I'm looking for I couldn't see anything amiss. Although if you saw a small blue rectangular box with I think a 5 or 6 pin connector block attached does that sound like an OEM part? just a thought.

[stephendell]

I would agree trace back, remove and repair/rejoin every circuit that has been interrupted. Do it logically one wire at a time and you can't go wrong. As stated previously regardless of the sophistication of the immobiliser it will just be interruptions of starter, ignition and injection circuits.

Try under/behind the passenger footwell. Or remove all the underbonnet plastics and have a good look around. Up behind the glovebox and up and around the fuse box if no luck in the centre console area. Also maybe behind the ecu cover.

I would agree trace back, remove and repair/rejoin every circuit that has been interrupted. Do it logically one wire at a time and you can't go wrong. As stated previously regardless of the sophistication of the immobiliser it will just be interruptions of starter, ignition and injection circuits.

Try under/behind the passenger footwell. Or remove all the underbonnet plastics and have a good look around. Up behind the glovebox and up and around the fuse box if no luck in the centre console area. Also maybe behind the ecu cover.

Yes you're right. Haven't got as far as removing the tray yet. I'll take another shot at trying to trace back.