Damper settings for ART adj

Hoping Dave or Peter will answer this, can you give a starter for the damper settings on the adj coil-overs, got em on last week and just set them all at 10 clicks, way to bouncy at the front weather permiting was going to have a play around over the weekend

I'd guess, just wind em up to the hardest setting and start from there.

I'm running full stiffness at the front and 8 off full stiffness at the back to discourage oversteer. I'm also running the back about 5mm higher than the front.....that really helps combat understeer.
I started of full stiffness, drove it up the road and then started fiddling with the rear settings from there. At Kames last weekend it handled in a suprisingly neutral way......no tail out or straight on into bends at all....superb!
A jump up from the Koni set up I had

cheers will have a play once weather pics up ive also set them so it is slightly nose down did you use waxoil on the shocker body because the last set of gaz and avo coilovers i had on my 5gtt corroded badly and was a pain to adjust the hieght and damping

Yes, just start hard and wind back until you get the desired setting.

All the kits are zinc plated so you won't get any corrosion issues. If anything...if you oil them up, you more likely to attract grit and road salt in the winter which will sit in the threads.

its just that i had them on my 5 and i didnt put nothing on them(oil) and after a few months they were corroded and the adjustmensts went stiff i thinka few people had this problem on there 5s

There's nothing wrong with lubricating them, just check for crap stuck to the threads before winding them up and down.

All coilovers need more looking after than standard shocks just due to their nature of design.

I'm running mine on full hard at the moment and its still comfortable enough for road use. To be honest for circuit use I don't think its stiff enough - would further uprated springs improve this?

Could do, with maybe more damping.

If required, the adjuster knob and pin on the shocks can be taken off and and replaced with a pin 0.5mm longer. This can shift the whole load band up to much higher damping if required, but then not allow softer settings, so its horses for courses. I wanted to kit to be able to be adjusted from soft to firm with good ride control, but if a customer wants a proper hard setup, it just requires the valve pin swapping over.

Peter doesn't seem to have a problem though, and he's on the most tightest and unbalanced of tracks...

It maybe worth trying it on a track first before making any alterations..

EDIT : Pin has to be swapped at the factory.

Not nessessacily,

I bet that one confused the spell checker!

The ART set up is ok.....yes it could be a tiny bit stiffer, but then you risk having a car that slides everywhere. Kames (the last circuit I went to) is quite tight and twisty and the suspension was spot on. The car was very neutral, not too much roll, good grip and a second quicker (on a 90second run) than with the old set up. Too firm can be worse than too soft. You only have to look at US 'sports cars' like the Corvette to see that....suspension rock hard....spin at the drop of a hat. Certianly for road use ithe ART set up is ideal as it can be softened for everyday use.....unless you fancy employing a chiropractor!!!!!

From this feedback, I will offer two kits, one with the current setup, and one with the different valve adjuster, though that will be for track use only though...

Is there an easy way to equate how the 2 settings would compare. If the settings with the stiffer pin (ooh er missus) started about the midway point of the softer range I would say they would make it ideal - can the pins be changed in situ?

I drove my Skyline the other day and the GTA on full hard is very similarly damped to that with standard suspension - wheel size is up 2" from standard on both cars so its a fair comparison - GTA doesn't bump steer or tramline nearly as much though.

Is there an easy way to equate how the 2 settings would compare. If the settings with the stiffer pin (ooh er missus) started about the midway point of the softer range I would say they would make it ideal - can the pins be changed in situ?

Nope, has to be done at GAZ, but I may offer exchange dampers to help everybody out.